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go inside to the lift gate and try to use a scewdriver to pry the latch loose while someone pushes the button or turns the key. it sounds like it's in a bind. you also may have to remove the cover panel from lift gate from the inside.
My info shows the ECC fuse 10Amp powers the Lift gate lock relay. this is the only Info I have so far. the ECC fuse is located in the instrument panel Fuse block. That fuse block should be at the left end of the dash. You have to have the drivers door open to access it. the fuse will be on the left side of the fuse block bottom corner just above the 25Amp circuit breaker for the LT doors. when you remove the fuse make sure the connection in the fuse block are not heated looking or that the fuse block itself is not melted looking. If so you have a loose connection there. you can try to close / tighten the connection with a small pick. bend the connection point closed so it will be tighter in the fuse when you install the fuse.
Did you remove the safety clip that stops it from collapsing during installation? Some of these need to be installed compressed and if they extend too far out they will lock up. I would remove the support, compress it at least halfway and then put it back in place with the hatch halfway closed if possible. Then lift the gate and see if that helps in the operation. This assumes you are talking about the spring tension Hydraulic lift bar on the hatch and that you can reach the connecting points with the hatch partially closed.
MARK THE POSITIONS OF THE WIPER ARM ON THE LIFT GATE GLASS,THEN REMOVE WIPER ARM COVER AND NUT AT THE OUT SIDE LIFT GATE, THEN THE BEZEL.BECAREFUL DONT DAMAGE PAINT.ON THE LIFT GATE.AND REMOVE THE UPPER AND LOWER LIFT GATE TRIM PANELS.DISCONNECT THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AT THE REAR WIPER MOTOR, THEN REMOVE THE TWO MOUNTING BOLTS SUPPORT WIPER MOTOR WHILE REMOVING BOLTS.THEN INSTALL NEW WIPER MOTOR AND PUT EVERY THING BACK IN PLACE VISA VERSA.
There are 2 star head screws where the handle is for pulling down and closing the lift gate, remove these 2 screws remove the handle , the panel around the window has to be removed first, it unsnaps, the lower panel also unsnaps, to re-install it is the reverse. Hope this helps.
I have the same problem and am still working on the fix, however, I can tell you how to manually get it unlocked/locked.
Climb inside the interior (I am assuming you can not open the hatch) and start in the upper right hand corner (no particular reason, you can start in the left if you like) and simply pull the interior door panel off the door. The cover just unsnaps and should release with just a little pressure. Do this for the top and the right and left sides and stop! There are two screws on the bottom of the panel that you will only be able to get to once you open the hatch!!
Reach inside the door and at the top of the lock assembly (it should be the tallest piece in the lock assembly closest to the door itself) is a lever that you should be able to move left/right. Flip that and the door will be unlocked. This lever is also connected to another piece a bit lower in the assembly, but that lever seems to move a bit easier than the other.
Be careful when you open the hatch as it is now only being held on with the two screws at the bottom of the hatch and the interior light electrical assemblies. So, if you are going to remove the cover completely, unhook the wiring assemblies, remove the screws and you should now have full access to the door/lock.
Simply reverse the process to put the cover back on.
did you ever figure out how to get your lift gate open? im having the same problem with my durango. i couldnt get the panel off so like a ****** i cut a hole in the panel so i could see the latch completely and i when i try to open it manually i can see the components moving but it is still acting permanently locked and will not open. Its so frustrating. Help!?!?!?
I have a 1999 Chrysler T&C 3.8 liter like yours and it sounds
like you are having the same the same problem I had.
Every time you hit the door unlock or lock button, it made a loud
buzz like you just missed a question on a game show. ;-)
It turned out the problem was the rear lift gate lock actuator. The part costs
about $40 from the dealer if I can recall correctly.
The repair involves: 1st removing the middle and rear seats to get
access from the inside to the rear gate
(obviously you will have to remove the seats from the side doors
since the rear gate won't open yet)
Remove the plastic inside rear gate panel and molding (phillips screws)
Once you remove the panel, you may see a way to manually
open the rear gate. As I recall, I think there was a access opening
covered from the inside with a black weather/insulation tape.
Carefully removing this out of the way gave access to a way to
manually open the gate, making the rest of the work easy.
Remove the electrical connector and the mounting bolts
to remove from the actuator. It is attached to the inside
rear gate with 2 or 3 bolts (10 mm?)
Remove the old one and replace the part, then put it all back
together, make sure you reconnect the electrical connector
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