Hey,Rudeboi, Before you take it apart again,Bleed the hydraulics again. keep the master cyl. filled ,a little air bubble can be a BIG dffterence.Pedal 'feel' is mostly the return spring! check for leaks and old hoses 'bulging' under pressure. Good Luck
I think the clue is in the fact not getting reverve gear,i would remove the gearbox and start again and check the fitting of all parts especially the gear selector , if all seems ok then i'd be looking at the lay shaft . Did you just need to change the clutch or was there a problem before that ?Also i have had in the past were the friction plate hasn't been the correct one and so it just spins, so i'd double check that it fits on the splines correctly, keep me posted if you wish
Do the wheels turn when in gear while off ground? If so, clutch needs to be adjusted so it does fully disengage. Sounds like it's not doing that.
SOURCE: clutch wont work
Probably air in the clutch hydraulic system. Did you bleed it? What fluid did you use?
SOURCE: I installed a new clutch and now I cannot change
if you have bled the system properly,the only answer is you have fitted the friction plate on backwards.....(the word front,printed,on the metal centre goes toward you/facing you.)check to see if you have full travel on the actuating lever when pedal is fully depressed....
SOURCE: 2000 Volkswagen Golf. This car has a five speed
COULD BE WORN OR DAMAGED REVERSE IDLER GEAR OR BUSHING. OR IT COULD BE WORN OR DAMAGED REVERSE GEAR ON MAIN SHAFT.
SOURCE: i have a 1992 ford
if the transmision is semi electric could be the sensors which are inside of the oilpan.
If the clutch pedal feels normal but ti grinds when trying to put it in gear with the engine running there is apossibility that the clutch disc was put in backwards but if the pedal goes to the floor then there is still air in the system.
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