Vacuum line connections

Here is a general vacuum hose and line placement diagram for a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4:

1. The vacuum line from the engine intake manifold should be connected to the vacuum reservoir tank.
2. The vacuum line from the vacuum reservoir tank should be connected to the vacuum actuator on the front axle.
3. The vacuum line from the vacuum actuator on the front axle should be connected to the transfer case.
4. The vacuum line from the transfer case should be connected to the vacuum actuator on the rear axle.
5. The vacuum line from the vacuum actuator on the rear axle should be connected to the vacuum reservoir tank.

It is important to note that the specific placement and routing of vacuum hoses and lines can vary depending on the make and model of your Dodge Ram 1500, as well as any modifications that may have been made to the vehicle. It is always recommended to refer to the manufacturer's instructions or a repair manual specific to your vehicle for accurate information. Additionally, it may be helpful to take pictures or label the hoses and lines before removing them to ensure proper reinstallation.

we can not see it, post photos of parts that look wrong,
most today, just shoot a photo with cell phone, then below
click comment, and add photos of what you see is wrong.
or go to a shop and ask them to fix it.



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If the truck has a vacuum hose to the transmission (to the vacuum modulator), the line will be a metal tube attached to the large tube that the transmission dipstick is in. It will come up and connect to a hose that will run to the base of the carburetor.
The function of this line and the modulator it goes to, is to give the transmission some sense of how much throttle is being applied during a shift to make the shifts softer or harder depending on load. The transmission will work without this line, but the shifts will be hard as if the throttle was all the way to the floor.
If the hose is broken or missing, there will also be a vacuum leak at the carburetor, causing a rough/high idle and possible an intermittent backfire.
If the truck is new enough, the transmission will be electronic and not have a vacuum modulator at all, and will have a plug with several wires connected to it on the drivers side.

Not sure here as dont have a lot of experiance on these 4x4 american vehicles but some vehicles have a central connection for the breather pipes to prevent water ingress when they go under water ,like the bedford TK army trucks of a bygone age ,so what you have found is a central connection for the all the diffs and gearboxes ,dont think this pipe is connected to the 4x4 drive problem

Hi. Thanks for your question. For clarification on EGR transducer vacuum line connection you can visit https://www.reliable-store.com and download the entire workshop manual which includes all the information along with the diagrams for better understanding. Good day!

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Even though the electrical switches are working, the vacuum lines may be the source of the trouble. Inspect all vacuum hoses. Look for loose connections, broken t fittings, weathered or mushy hoses, There is a vacuum operated switch under the vehicle that engages the front axle. Locate this switch and make sure the vacuum line is still connected at both ends. This hose is bad about coming loose.

There are several things that can cause this, from a split vacuum line to a broken hose or defective EGR valve to a defective timing advance diaphragm in your distributor.. You definitely have an over abundance of air in your engine and the repair could be cheap or expensive. I think first I'd inspect the motor, looking closely over the intake system for a missing vacuum cap / hose, broken hose, or fallen off hose. If nothing found, get a couple cans of carb cleaner and carefully and methodically spray down the intake, along all vacuum lines in a 1 second burst. Listen closely for an increase of RPMs - if the engine races stop and closely look where you just sprayed because you've just found the vacuum leak. Repair that leak and continue on until you've covered the entire intake / vacuum system - don't forget to check the lines going to the various canisters and components under the hood.
Hope this helps!

The exact connection of vacuum tubes in 1985 Winnebago motor home 
The vacuum lines attach to the pushbutton assy. through a molded rubber thing that has probably disintegrated and the vacuum lines are lying loose. Here's how to reconnect them.
Notice a group of seven nipples. This is where the vacuum lines attach. I numbered the nipples in the text drawing below. NOTE: This is the layout as viewed from the front of the coach. Use pieces of rubber tubing to take the place of the old molded thingy and connect the lines to the numbered nipples as described below.

1 2 3 4
o o o o
o o o
5 6 7

Plug up nipples 1, 2, and 5.You can use  small nails that fit snugly into the holes.
Connect the black line (vacuum source) to nipple 6.
Connect the white line (rearward-pointing outlets) to nipple 4.
Connect the red line (downward-pointing outlets) to nipple 7.
Connect the blue line (heater) to nipple 3.
Check out.Thanks.
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It sounds to me like there is still a pretty good vacuum leak somewhere, and you should also check for any dis-connected or missing vacuum lines on the intake manifold, at the carburetor, and the large vacuum hose to the brake booster unit and the vacuum valve at the brake booster unit for any vacuum leaks or broken vacuum lines/hoses, and they can be hard to find because cracks in the vacuum hoses like to hide on the under-side of the vacuum lines/hoses especially the hard plastic ones. Also the carburetor could be loose or the carburetor base gasket could be damaged, the EGR valve gasket could be damaged, or the intake manifold gasket could be damaged, and these are all the most likely places to suspect a major vacuum leak.