Yesterday replaced the fan clutch& top radiator hose. Today - no start no click click click no nothing. Its as if the battery was missing. Its been on a trickle charge for 3 hours. Nothing. 2000 Durango 8 cylinder. 4x4 Signed - stranded in Mexico.

I wish you guys/gals would give info on what vehicle you need help with..just too many variables out there today..most cars today have fan sensors that are located in the radiator core fins..it turns on when the temp rises above the preset temp..and shuts off when it reaches the normal operating temp of the engine...fan clutches were designed to work with RPM's allowing the engine to rev and not lose power from fan spinning..a stuck clutch would cause high revs of the fan and reduced cruising speed..a lose one would cause over heating.hope this helps good luck..

Overheating due to bad thermostat or bad radiator cap could cause the problem. The radiator cap vents excessive pressure to the overflow container which should also have fluid in it at all times.

cleaning the electric clutch connector on top of the radiator would help, if not might have to replace fan clutch

when engine over heating to keep from doing engine damage determine how long you drive vechicle if you stopped in time.replace thermostat, radiator pressure cap and replace radiator if it has holes in it and leaking replace top and bottom radiator hoses.check your engine oil on oil dip stick if dip stick look like milk shake you could blowed head gasket if you did drive too long when truck over heated.check your radiator cooling clutch fan should when engine cold turn clutch fan by hand should drag when engine get hotter then clutch fan should be more harder to turn by hand.if clutch fan feel loose and spin easily free wheel clutch fan need replacing it will cause engine to overheat.

Make sure the fans are working, and also that there is no air trapped in the coolant system. Good luck

you need a special tool(fan clutch removal tool), autozone will let you borrow for free with a security deposit. Make sure engine is cold. Remove negative battery terminal1. Drain all coolant, and remove top radiator hose. 2.remove fan shroud on radiator(transmission cooler lines may need to be disconnected and slide off the fan clutch harness on the RH side). 3.loosen fan bolts on fan clutch. 4. use fan clutch tool to unbolt main fan clutch bolt. 5. Unplug fan clutch electrical harness. Reverse to install!! NOTE: You may need to reprogram the ECU if you install a new fan clutch and your check engine light comes on. Make sure you refill coolant with GMs recommended dexron coolant. Hopefully this helps....please rate....thanks!!

most likely the compressor clutch has seized up

Below u will find Auto zone list for reason ur car can over heat Shaun Inspect Cooling System Mix Coolant level low or flow is restricted. 2 Inspect Belt Incorrectly routed, adjusted, tensioned, missing, or worn water pump belt(s). 3 Inspect Oil Pan Gasket - Performance Ruptured, cracked or leaking radiator hose. 4 Inspect Radiator Cap Worn or damaged radiator cap 5 Inspect Thermostat Thermostat stuck closed 6 Inspect Fan Blade Broken, missing, or defective fan blade(s). 8 Inspect Water Pump Damaged, worn or leaking water pump. 9 Inspect Intake Manifold Plenum - Perform Leaking water pump gasket. 10 Inspect Cooling Fan Control Faulty cooling fan control or circuit. 11 Inspect Cooling Fan Switch - Radiator Faulty radiator cooling fan switch or circuit. 12 Inspect Engine Temperature Sensor Faulty engine temperature sensor or circuit. 13 Inspect Temperature Switch Damaged or faulty temperature switch or temperature switch circuit. 14 Inspect Fan Clutch Worn, loose or faulty fan clutch. 15 Inspect Ported Vacuum Switch Damaged, leaking, or faulty ported vacuum switch. 16 Inspect Radiator Obstructed radiator core or radiator cooling fins. 17 Inspect Head Gasket - Performance Head gasket leaking coolant into cylinders

Start by replacing the coolant cap and thermostat, then replace the hi and low radiator fan relays,

Disconnect battery, the first time you lay a wrench across the posts you'll understand why...Drain radiator. If petcock at bottom of radiator doesn't work, pull the bottom radiator hose. You will probably want to remove the radiator rock-guard under bumper first. LOTS more room to work. Just pop out the plastic retaining pins and slide it under the vehicle out of your way. *TIP* DO NOT lay under the hose b/c it's easier to reach, keep your mouth closed, and have the catch pan for the coolant already under the vehicle. While you are down there, look for an inline connector on the trans. cooler line(near center bottom of radiator). Use two wrenches to disconnect these and have something clean to plug the line with, it WILL leak. Disconnect top rad. hose and overflow hose(located on base of radiator fill). Disconnect the TOP trans. fluid cooler line. Remove four fan shroud retaining bolts. Don't lose. Remove radiator mounting bolts(2). Lean the fan shroud against the pulleys/belt and remove the radiator. Three hands would be nice right now as you will need to wriggle the trans cooler line around the shroud mounts and lower trans cooler line to get it out. Be patient, it WILL come out. Remove the fan shroud from vehicle. Loosen the clutch fan bolt w/ a clutch fan wrench( lg. Channel Lock) or a lg. crescent wrench. Serpentine belt might hold it tight enough, might not. If not, remove belt and use a strap wrench to hold onto the water pump pulley while loosening clutch fan bolt. Probably has reverse threads. Righty loosey instead of lefty loosey. Now remove the heater core coolant return line from right side of water pump. Look at top of water pump, there is a 1-1/2" hose you will need to loosen so the WP will come out. Start at 12 o'clock position and remove the WP bolts, keeping them in order as you take them out as they are different lengths. ***** You should be able to gently pry the WP away from the engine block now. If not, look for more bolts in the WP. There is one near the top that is easy to miss, hard to see. Now you can clean all the old gasket from the engine block in preparation to put the new WP on.
You will prob be better off getting a new WP as most have a life-time warranty and rebuilts do not. (saved me $57.09!!)Most new WPs will have a thread protector on the pulley that will need to come off. Next you should put a thin layer of high temp RTV(Permagasket, etc.) on the WP and the back of the gasket. Using 1 or 2 of the longer bolts as guides you can carefully re-install the WP to the engine. Torque the WP bolts evenly a little at a time. Go back up to " ***** " and you should be able to reverse order the instructions from there. Remember to use the O ring for the heater core coolant return line. Mine still leaks there but hopefully I'll get that fixed tomorrow, even if I have to get a replacement tube. Good luck.