Can I change the connecting rod bearings on a 1.8 2010 focus with no issues

Connecting Rod Bearing Cap Bolts25 Nm+30°+15°(18 ft. Lbs.+30°+15°)

Here is the cylinder hear torque search query. Change for each part and press Enter.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+ford+ranger+2.5+cylinder+head+bolt+torque+settings

https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+ford+ranger+2.5+main+bearing+bolt+torque+settings

https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+ford+ranger+2.5+con+rod+bearing+bolt+torque+settings

or the manual

https://barringtondieselclub.co.za/ford/ford-ranger-2.5-he-4-cyl-engine.html

..

Yes
however as there may/will be a ring ridge at the top of the cylinder any new bearings fitted may make the top ring hit that ridge
if you are replacing just oneset of bearings on one con-rod you may get away with it but it there is a tapping noise after the job it will be the rings hitting the ridge
if left un-attended to , there is the possibilities of broken top rings or broken ring lands on the piston

Sounds like a bad rod bearing, no cure except a rebuild. I assume you do know the difference between spark knock and bearing knock.

Are you referring to connecting rod bearings? If so, I hope you're tooled up and VERY mechanically inclined. If that's the case, you'll want to pull the engine, mount it on an engine stand, remove the bottom components (oil pan, oil pump and any other components that would interfere with a complete and open access to the crankshaft). It is possible to change the rod bearings without removing the top of the engine (intake manifold and carb, valve cover, rocker arm, camshaft, valves, lifters and heads), but I wouldn't recommend you try unless you're a real motorhead. In fact, I wouldn't recommend that you even attempt any of this unless you're very experienced at auto mechanics. Of course, if you're NOT talking about connecting rod bearings, you can disregard everything I've said so far, and elaborate on what you actually want to do.

Usually no. You can try an additive like seafoam to see if that will clean it out but under normal circumstance, you will have to pull the motor to clean it out.
Also, you need to make sure you have the right bearing (They are usually marked with colored paint) someone could have used a larger bearing on that con rod before and you may not have know and installed the wrong size. Only way to tell for sure is to use plastigauge.

what is the motor from? Typically if you changed out all those parts already and its still a heavy knock, you're looking at crank bearings. How did you change the connecting rod bearings without the crank bearings? or are you referring to something else? I would assume its connecting rod bearings are the issue, if main bearings go you would see an issue in oil pressure.

You will have to remove crank to replace and removing motor would be my suggestion...Would also suggest having the crank turned.......hope this info helps and good luck......please rate my post....

check oil straner inside oil pan clean the filter and check if stil. you should replace crank bearing. and con-rod bearing and (oil pump ) you can start by replacing con- rod first .

2002 2.0L Duratech.

Don't have 2004 2.3L

• NOTE: Use new connecting rod bearing cap bolts.
  NOTE: Do not fully tighten the connecting rod bearing cap bolts at this stage.
  Install the bearing caps.

• Rotate the crankshaft through 180 degrees and insert pistons 2 and 3.

• Position the corresponding bearing shells, clean and free of oil, into the connecting rod and the connecting rod bearing cap.

• Coat the inner side of the bearing shells with engine oil.

1. NOTE: The crankshaft must rotate freely, if necessary check and adjust the bearing clearances.
   Tighten the main bearing and connecting rod bearing bolts.
   1. Tighten the main bearing bolts in two stages.
      • Stage 1: 25 Nm.
      • Stage 2: 60 degrees.
   1. Tighten the connecting rod bearing bolts in two stages.
      • Stage 1: 35 Nm.
      • Stage 2: 90 degrees.