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You need either Dot 3 or Dot 4 brake fluid for clutch cylinder. If the old oil in clutch cylinder oil container is red or yellow then its Dot 3 and if its Clear like water then its Dot 4. Never Mix dot 3 and dot 4 oil. Check your vehicle owner manual for correct type of oil.
For bleeding you need to open the valve near the brake caliper till all the air inside the fluid pipe is released and oil starts dripping. Also add fresh oil in clutch container so that you don't create air gaps while bleeding.
First off, clutch hydraulics use ONLY dot 3/4 brake fluid, if you used any kind of petroleum product you have ruined the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave/actuator(GM's term)cylinder. The level is on the side of the reservoir. If you had to add fluid, you have a leak in the system, probably the slave cylinder first. A master cylinder leak would have fluid on the inside of the firewall, where the master cylinder is mounted(leaking at the back). You bleed clutch hydraulics as you would with brakes.
1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.
4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.
5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.
6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.
7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.
8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.
9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.
10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT
1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.
2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.
3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).
4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.
5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.
NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.
6. Turn on the service filling machine.
7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).
8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.
9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.
10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.
11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.
12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.
13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.
14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.
15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.
FIRST REMOVE ALL OLD FLUID FROM CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER YOU CAN USE A SIPHON YOU HAND PUMP.AUTO PARTS STORES SELLS THE HAND PUMP SIPHONS. THEY DONT COST MUCH AND KEEP FROM MAKING A MESS.SIPHON OUT MUCH AS YOU CAN THE OLD FLUID IN THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.THEN POUR IN THE NEW FLUID DOT 3 BRAKE FLUID IN CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.OKAY YOU NEED A HELPER.LOCATE THE SLAVE CYLINDER.REMOVE SLAVE CYLINDER HOLD SLAVE CYLINDER 45 DEGREES WITH BLEEDER SCREW LOCATED AT THE HIGHEST POINT.HAVE A SMALL DRAIN PAN UNDER SLAVE CYLINDER.HAVE HELPER FULLY DEPRESS AND HOLD THE CLUTCH PEDAL THEN OPEN BLEED SCREW.CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW AND HAVE HELPER RELEASE THE CLUTCH PEDAL.REPEAT THIS PROCESS UNTIL ALL THE OLD BRAKE FLUID AND AIR BUBBLES LEAVES THE HYDRALIC SYSTEM AND WHEN YOU CAN SEE GOOD STREAM CLEAN FLUID NO BUBBLES YOU HAVE GOOD SOLID CLUTCH ALL IS GOOD.MAKE SURE THROUGH THE BLEEDING PROCESS YOU DONT LET CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY OR YOU WILL HAVE TO START OVER.KEEP CLUTCH MASTER CYLINER FULL BRAKE FLUID WHILE DOING THE WHOLE BLEEDING AND FLUSHING PROCESS.
it is a hydraulic clutch, you should bleed it with fresh fluid before taking it in, as it's fairly easy, if a bit tedious. It can be done on your own, but will take 10-15 minutes and a fair few trips between in the car and in under the hood.
to bleed you'll need: small hose that fits fairly snug on the bleeding nipple, around 8-12 inches in length. small wrench (I want to say 8mm, but I can't recall for sure off hand) a jar for the old fluid to be purged into some DOT 3 (or higher) brake fluid
Preparation: place the hose onto the bleed nipple (just follow the hose from the reservoir, which is attached to the air filter box, down to the transmission itself, it should be pretty much up front and fairly easy to access) [my own preference is to use a closed end wrench on the nipple first then the hose to help hold it in place]
Bleeding: use the wrench to loosen the nipple a bit (maybe quarter turn), then press the clutch pedal, if the nipple is loosened enough it will easily go to the floor and stay there, go back around and tighten the nipple, then go back and pull the clutch pedal back off the floor, repeat the process until it appears that the fluid is clear, might be 20 or so repetitions. Don't forget to keep adding fluid to the reservoir as needed.
Last time I did this it made the clutch feel quite a bit firmer
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING
The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.