What would cause water to get into the secondary pollution pump?

The problem is the PAIR valve. the PAIR is vacuum controlled and sits on a tube that connects to the main exhaust pipe. The valve gets coated with deposits over time and doesn't seal off like it should. This air leak causes any water that condenses in the lines or piping to go to the lowest point in the system. In the case of the 850's the pump when activated pulls in the water like a straw.

The valve is located at the back of the engine below the upper engine torque mount (the black brace that sticks up on the side of the engine.

If you plan on replacing the valve yourself do yourself a favor and use a short ratcheting 10mm wrench, the slimmer the better. It's a pain, but it's the only way.

You will need to replace the valve and pump again unfortunately.

YEP EASY FIX CHECK FUSES TO AIR PUMP VACUUM SOLENOID.CHECK VACUUM HOSES AND VACUUM SOURCE TO THE AIR PUMP VACUUM SOLENOID .THE AIR PUMP VACUUM VALVE SOLENOID IS NORMALLY CLOSED NO VACUUM IS APPLIED TO THE CHECK VALVE. WHEN THE PCM ENERGIZES THE SOLENOID BY COMPLETING THE CIRCUIT TO GROUND. THE VALVE OPENS VACUUM IS APPLIED TO THE CHECK VALVE. THE CHECK VALVE OPENS AND AIR FLOWS THROUGH THE TUBE INTO THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD. THREE THINGS WILL CAUSE SECONDARY AIR PUMP PROBLEMS.THE SECONDARY AIR PUMP IS BAD.OR THE AIR PUMP VACUUM SOLENOID NOT GETTING VACUUM OR POWER.OR THE CHECK VALVE TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD NOT OPENING.IF YOU HAVE FAULTY SECONDARY AIR PUMP IT WILL MAKE SQUEALING NOISE AIR PUMP GETTING READY TO LOCK UP.

Definition
Secondary Air Injection System fault
Explanation
The air injection system is monitored for faults
Probable Causes
1) Circuit relay defective or fuse open
2) Check connector and wiring
3) AIR pump defective or hoses blocked

You have an air injection problem with the emissions system, check with a tech for any tsb's or recall extended warranty etc that are related to that system. CHECK WARRANTY!

It can be caused by...
Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump.
Blown AIR pump fuse due to freezing up.

Possible solutions:
The TSB calls for the replacement of the AIR pump and the installation of a new secondary injection hose.
Replace the AIR pump AND one-way check valve.
Test and clean the AIR pump AND test and replace the one-way air check valve.
Replace the AIR pump inlet hose.
Replace the AIR pump fuse (found under the hood).

You might have to replace a hose or two, or you might need an entire new air pump. A visual inspection from a licensed mechanic will confirm exactly what needs to be replaced, as it can be one of several things, if not multiple problems.

Hope that helps.

The P0410 code refers to the emissions system. The AIR pump puts air to the exhaust to lower emissions. It takes in outside air and pumps it through two one-way check valves into each bank of the exhaust ( P0410 - Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction )

About 90% of the time that this code is set, the one-way check valves have worn out or failed and allow water (which occurs naturally in the exhaust) back into the pump. In any cold climate, especially in climates with higher humidity, this water may be more excessive. The water partially fills the AIR pump, it can then freeze. When the PCM commands the pump on, if the pump is frozen it cannot turn, thus overloading the circuit and "popping" the fuse.

Possibly symptoms include:
* MIL illumination obviously
* Hesitation on acceleration
* Noise from a bad/stuck AIR pump

Causes: A code P0410 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
* Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump
* Blown AIR pump fuse due to freezing up

Possible Solutions:
Note: There is a technical service bulletin (TSB) regarding this code for a number of GM models. The TSB calls for the replacement of the AIR pump and the installation of a new secondary injection hose. The TSB can be found on this ACDelco site.

Additionally, if you simply replace the AIR pump the problem may return again (and again). If you replace the pump, also clean out the hoses and replace the one-way check valve. If this is on a GM model that the TSB applies to, follow those instructions in the link above. In a few cases, people have put a small hole in the rubber cover on the pump which allows any water to drain out.

Also, please note that this may be covered under the emissions warranty on the vehicle. If your vehicle is out of bumper-to-bumper warranty, check if the emissions warranty is still valid!
* Replace the AIR pump AND one-way check valve
* Test and clean the AIR pump AND test and replace the one-way air check valve
* Replace the AIR pump inlet hose
* Replace the AIR pump fuse (found under the hood)


Hope this helps (remember comment and to rate this answer).

16795/P0411/001041


if (window.showTocToggle) { var tocShowText = "show"; var tocHideText = "hide"; showTocToggle(); } 16795/P0411/001041 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected Possible Symptoms

• Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON

Possible Causes

• Fuel Pump Relay (J17) faulty
• Hoses/Pipes to/between Components faulty/clogged
• Secondary Air Injection Pump (V101) faulty
• Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay (J299) faulty
• Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112) faulty

Possible Solutions

• Check Fuel Pump Relay (J17)
• Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components
  • Check Secondary Air Injection Hoses/Pipes for Carbonization
• Check Secondary Air Injection Pump (V101)
• Check Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay (J299)
• Check Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)

This is a pump that sits underneath your front bumper on the passenger side. It is about the size of a baseball and has two hoses going into it. I would suggest you replace it yourself as it would cost you about $360.00 if you were to go through the dealer.

Water intrusion is what will typically kill these electric pumps. There is a Technical service bulletin (#04-06-04-015) Regarding this problem, according to the tsb, you will need a new pump and there is a hose assy. #12590627) that has you reroute the pump from future water intrusion or it is guaranteed to fail again.

Although I have had water in the pump I did not see any indication of the inlet hose as the cause. It was suggested that the one way metal check valves ($15.00) that mount to the rt & lt exhaust manifold are worn and allow water from the exhaust to get sucked back into the pump. I first replaced the pump and within a week of dry weather driving the light came back on. I checked the pump and it was again full of water. I just replaced the valves which had deteriorated on the inside. So hopefully this will eliminate the problem. Note - The valves are impossible to remove without removing the 1/2 tubes (held on with 2 nuts) they are attached to the manifold with. The valve threads seize to the tube thread and had to be clamped in a vise to remove - I actually had to hacksaw the valve section to get it off the pipe. Careful as not to damage the threads.

Good luck and try autopartsdirect2you for a new pump and it has life time warranty.

TSB #04-06-04-015 - (Mar 22, 2004)

Condition
Some owners may comment on the check engine light being illuminated. Upon investigation, the technician may find a DTC P0410 indicating that there is a concern in the secondary air injection system.

Cause
Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump.

Correction
Replace the AIR pump and install a new inlet hose and solenoid tube assembly using the following procedure:

Prep vehicle.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove shield covering AIR pump.
Remove hose and vacuum lines from pump and solenoid.
Remove AIR pump inlet hose. Do not re-use.
Disconnect electrical connectors from pump and solenoid.
Remove pump mounting bolts and pump.
Transfer isolators from the old pump to the new pump.
Install new AIR pump and bolts to vehicle.

Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 17N·m (12.5 lb ft)

Route new hose assembly up between engine and fender. It should come up near the area between the battery and the coolant bottle.
Connect new inlet hose to pump inlet.
Connect old outlet hose to pump outlet.
Connect electrical connector to pump.
Connect electrical connector for solenoid to connector on the new hose assembly.
Connect the hose with the white nipple to the vacuum source hose.
Connect the remaining hose to the shut off valve.
Install shield covering AIR pump.
Lower vehicle.
Remove coolant reservoir nut nearest the battery.
Route new hose assembly between the battery and the coolant reservoir with the solenoid on top.
Install the solenoid bracket onto the coolant reservoir stud and reinstall the nut back into the vehicle.
Use a wire tie to keep the new hose assembly away from the engine. On four cylinder engines, tie to the AIR outlet hose. On six cylinder engines, tie to an available hole in the radiator fan shroud.

12590627 Hose Assembly - Secondary Air Injection

12568324 Pump, Secondary Air Injection for 2001 L35 + 2000-2003 L43/LN2

12560095 Pump, Secondary Air Injection for 1999-2000 L35

Hope that helps

The code refers to the secondary air pump. This pump helps reduce pollution by injecting air in the exhaust system for up to 30 seconds at cold startups.


Possible causes:
Bad Air Pump. Fix: replace air pump, it is found low, under the battery
Bad Relay (controls the air pump) :
The relay is in the relay box next to the battery. It is the relay in the left upper corner when looking towards the driver.


A detailed picture I took here: http://imgur.com/RCiLL.jpg

This is a code related to the air flow from the air pump (aka pollution pump) into your exhaust system. This air pump takes outside air and injects it in the exhaust stream after the engine to help burn off any residual fuel or pollutants. When P0411 comes up, the control module detects a lack of air flow either caused by a defective air pump, leaking/clogged air hoses, or bad check valves.

P0410 secondary air injection system malfunction. I've dealt with this problem myself. It's either the air pump which is located under the driver's side door on the frame, or it's the valve on the engine that is sticking.
The air pumps are notorious for "freezing up" in cold climates due to water sitting in the pump and freezing and then breaking the impeller from the shaft in the pump. This is what happened with mine.
Remove your pump and test it. If it spins and blows air,then it's fine. Then check your valve on the engine. If that opens (which they like to get corroded with exhaust gasses and stick) Then that will be ok. If not, you'll have a pretty good idea what is going on.
I wnt ahead and replaced both the pump and valve, which were both crappy.
GM also has a check valve that you can install to prevent water from entering the pump. I just drilled a small hole in the bottom of mine to "drain" the water.

Your secondary air injection check valves are probably stuck open allowing exhaust to back flow into the hoses, melting them when the AIR pump isn't running.