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all fuses good , first, (endless and forever stated )
the starter relay has on output pin.
and input and 2 coil wires.
the relay clicks and the output pin must go to 12vdc and if starter not dead it spins and the voltage NOW can sag easy to 10vdc.
due to normal battery internal resistance , all have.
you do know right any starter (solenoid type) can be hot wired.
we unplug the 1 solenoid wire. FIRST. (a tiny Faston 1 pin lug)
here are the ROPES, me done 100s of times, 1960s up.
1: chock wheels.
2; shifter in park.
3: key off all the time , no kids in the cab .
4: we make jumper wire with an inline 15amp fuse (or20)
this prevents wire burning up in hands, if wire is shorted or solenoid is bad and shorted.
5 we now jump PLUS lug main battery to that fast on pin on the starter solenoid.
6: see engine crank , spin over, see the stare is good and relay not.
or bad PRNDL switch, on trannybox.
to be more safe I connect bottom wire first
and the try to reach battery form the side of car. vastly more safe that standing front.
that is how I do it and have never failed to find the cause.
other causes are endless (wires make that true)
someone (sadly)
hacked in REMOTE START junk.(and deadly google it)
or hacked in and ALARM system and wires to starter are a wreck
that is what hacking earns, failure.
this is why a real tech looks at all those point with eyes for HACKING.
I be blind here why ask the blind ?
I have personally seen most the blunders done to cars wiring)
even road hazards can hit starter and just break that wire.
I look first.
There isn't one. A relay is an electronic switch that uses a low amperage or low voltage current to operate contacts to a larger amperage cable. your accessory socket is just a direct cable to a 12 volt power source. The usually have a fuse inline to the cable or sometimes in the fuse box. You should be running anything higher than a couple of amps.
What is a car relay? In the most simple terms an automotive relay is an electronically operated switch. The type most commonly used in the automotive industry is an electro-mechanically operated switch. They are found in all types of vehicles - cars, trucks, vans, trailers and boats.
May 1, 2019
the obvious place to work on would be the switch as bypassing it makes the winch work. The problem will be there or the solenoids that the switch controls . What about the wire to the switch
Not a solenoid , it's called a relay . An yes your vehicle has it . What is clicking when trying to start the vehicle , where do you hear this . At the starter , behind or under the dash ? The relay is plugged into the underhood fuse / relay box or inside the passenger compartment into the SJB - smart junction box . right or left kick panel . Before replacing or assuming the relay is the problem testing the battery an battery cables using voltage drop testing should be done . Becausing this clicking could be caused by lack of voltage to the starter . or voltage drop .
If everything inline is good, then replace the switches. Your truck IS hitting sixteen years old now, so it really could be anything in the line from the switches to the transfer case.
The winch has electric solenoids to control the motor. Most of the time when these things quit working, it is either because the solenoid has failed or the wire connections to the solenoids has come loose.
The AC clutch is passenger compartment fuse # 5. This is the fuse for the circuit through the function selector switch to the AC pressure cut off switch & the AC pressure cycling switch.
The engine compartment fuse # 23 & 3 control the WOT ( wide Open Throttle ) relay to the AC clutch diode & AC compressor clutch solenoid.
The heavy + should be connected to the battery through the solenoid for the motor. There should be wires to control the solenoid (an electric switch, you know). The - goes to the truck's frame at a place of your choice. The ground must be solid, you know that, right?
I think if I were doing this install, I would hook the plow ground with the battery ground on the fame or where ever it is located.
The plow control should be mounted for your convenience inside the cab.
Lets review: Plow motor | ground to ground, hot to solenoid (motor side) | solenoid (battery side) to battery | solenoid control wires to cab.
if the fuse is ok your next step is to see if you have power at the heater fan switch,if you do then the next thing is the heater blower motor resister it is under the heater assembly,that is what gives you different speeds, the last is test for power at blower motor to see if it is faulty
Have you checked the 'inertia switch' which in the event of an accident shuts off the fuel supply to prevent a fire . It's usually located in the cab on pass. side. Some models have one reset button, some 2 which have to be pressed at the same time. If that's not it, here's how the power to the pump SHOULD work, you will have to follow the path to see where it stops. When you turn the key on it turns on the EEC power relay on, this relay then provides power to the PCM (power control module) and the control side of the fuel pump relay. Power for the fuel pump is supplied through a fuse link or high current fuse attached to the starter solenoid (battery side). From the fuse link or high current fuse current flows thru the fuel pump relay and inertia switch to the fuel pump. The fuel pump relay is controlled by the PCM. When the ignition switch is turned on the fuel pump will operate, if the switch is NOT turned to start position, the PCM will shut off the fuel pump off after 1 second. This is to avoid flooding the engine when it is not running, just key on. So check out to see if you have a fuse link or a high current fuse and if they are blown.
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