Hope Everyone had a great 4th I've got a 1997 accord, small 4 cyl. it's cranks, runs and drives fine till 3,000 rpm. then it falls on it's face. it surges Jerks and won't build any more rpms get below 3000 shifts into next gear and runs fine till 3,000 rpm. changed plugs, wires and cap in good shape. fuel pressure good at fuel rail, any ideas, I'm stumped
Cranks easy,Runs good if build speed up slowly but feels and sounds like air or fuel is shut off when it hits the 3000 rpmCranks easy,Runs good if build speed up slowly but feels and sounds like air or fuel is shut off when it hits the 3000 rpm
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Jul 2, 2008 - My 97 E320 wont start. ... 1997 E320 Wont Start ... So, we know that any engine won't start if it has no spark or no gas, so that is where we have ...
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Apr 4, 2013 - Uploaded by Roy Carlsen
1997 E320 Trouble Cranking ... 1998 Mercedes E Class (E320)Start Up and Review 3.2 L V6 - Duration ...
They both have crank sensors. crank sensor is the same as RPM sensor. Both cars need rpm signal. You could compare the inputs and match differences...but BYPASSING or skipping isnt ever a good idea. The 97 if I recall required crank and tdc. the 93 simply had a distributor reluctor generating both,.
WHat I recommend is you dont mix and match engines that arent compatible or change the incompatible pieces. Life is much easier both at 1st start and in the future when it needs repair.
However, you can get the crank/rpm signal from the 93 distributor, move it to the same wires ast he 97 lists, and it MAY fire. Youll still have to deal with cam and TDC, and all sorts of other incompatioble parts.. the 93 5 speed ECM should still work fine, so its a 5 speed? the engine doesnt care. Was t just not cranking because of the clutch switch input you now didnt have? You could jumper those pins (blue n black?) and bypass that. At least then all your ECM inputs are correct and in the right pins. That seems alot easier than mixing and matching year parts.
Similar problem due to wiring on ASD (automatic shutdown relay) not connected tight to terminals on underside (fuse box under hood). I encountered this problem repeatedly after a mechanic (national chain) kept removing this wire for some reason (eventually causing computer to fry). Also related problem misfiring/backfiring/bogging down under certain driving conditions I traced to the battery sliding into computer wiring harness and disrupting sensor input/output signals. Placed 1" spacer on rear clamp to push battery forward, which cured this problem.
1) you need to reset the ignition system according the manufacturer specificaciton. Test the distributor, condense or EI or Electronic Module 2) sensors defective 3) fuel pump defective. 4) go to the Scanner+computer for better diagnostic GOD BLESS YOU
You don't provide much information to go on (type of vehicle, type of engine, 2wd or 4wd, etc.) RPM is always going to be based on the speed you're traveling with a standard transmission. My 4 cyl 5 speed Nissan pickup in 5th gear runs at 3000 RPM at about 75mph.
I would say to keep the RPM's aroud 2k....Anything under that is letting the motor load up so to speak....plus you have the power to accelerate if you need to with out gearing down.
hi increase your idling steed by ajusting your throttle stop screw you will find it at the end of your throttle cable where it links to the carb hope this helps
check that your time is dead on or if you have a loose time chain that will make your truck cut out,also check all your vacuum lines to the carb.if those are fine give your rig a tune up
Cranks easy,Runs good if build speed up slowly but feels and sounds like air or fuel is shut off when it hits the 3000 rpm
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