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Re: Other than liquid wrench, what would you use to...
You can use a torch to warm it up. You don't need to cut it off with the torch, but even a propane torch could loosen it up enough for you to get it off.
I ran into the same problem with my running boards. They have a wing nut inside the frame. The only way I got them off was to loosen them so much and then jump on the running boards. But I did shove a screwdriver into the hole to stop the wing nut from turning. The other one I had a friend go at it with a pneumatic socket.
If the rotor won't slide off{they usually don't} thread 4 bolts back into the rear of the hub ,allow about a 1/4 inch distance between hub and bolt head,using a soket or spacer block between head of nut and 4 wheel yoke turn steering wheel and studs will push hub of ,this may take several tries.
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this is very simple to replace in side the cab of the vehicle is the rear wheel well remove the carpet and trim in the area off the rear access area of the wheel well there is a few nuts there remove them then under the vehicle there is a bolt and nut at the bottom of the strut then slide the strut out. if its coil over shock you will need a two wrenchs to remove the nut loosen but do not remove until you compress the spring after compressing the spring remove nut install new shock and then reverse the removal process thighten all bolts with vehicle on ground the top bolt torqued to 18 to 21 ft lbs and the bottom bolt 65 ft lbs
. Place a set of wheel chocks behind the rear wheels of the Previa. Lift the front of the automobile on the side that you are starting with. Place a jack stand under the Previa and raise it to the frame of the vehicle. Remove the wheel using the lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts. 2Remove the brake caliper by loosening the retaining pins with a socket and ratchet. Secure the caliper out of the way using a wire tie. Do not allow it to hang by the hose. Remove the brake rotor from the wheel. Disconnect the ABS sensor from the strut if the Previa has anti-lock brakes. Sponsored Links Bridgestone PromotionGet Either A Reward Card Or Kindle When You Buy 4 Select Ecopia Tires.BridgestoneTire.com/Promo3Remove the nut securing the brake hose bracket to the strut with a wrench. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link using a wrench. Loosen the two lower bolts on the strut assembly with a socket and ratchet but do not remove them. Remove the cotter pin from the tie-rod end using the pliers. 4Remove the castellated nut with a wrench. Separate the tie-rod end from the wheel knuckle. Remove the top three bolts from the strut using a socket and ratchet. Access the bolts from inside the engine compartment on the wheel well. Remove the bottom bolts and take the strut from under the Previa. 5Place the spring compressor on the coil spring and tighten it enough that the pressure is taken off the spring seats. Remove the center nut from the strut shaft using a wrench. Remove the coil spring cap, coil spring and spring seats from the strut. Put the coil spring on the new strut along with the spring seats and cap. 6Install the center nut and tighten it with a wrench. Place the strut on the Previa and loosely install the two bottom bolts. Connect the top three bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet. Tighten the bottom bolts with a socket and ratchet. Connect the tie rod to the wheel knuckle. Install the castellated nut and tighten it with a socket and ratchet. 7Insert a new cotter pin in the tie-rod end and spread it open with the pliers. Connect the stabilizing bar link. Tighten the bolt with a wrench. Connect the brake hose bracket to the strut and tighten the nut with a wrench. Connect the ABS sensor if the Previa has antilock brakes. 8Put the brake rotor on the wheel assembly. Cut the wire tie securing the caliper using the pliers. Place the caliper in the mounting cradle and tighten the locking pins with a socket and ratchet. Install the wheel on the Previa. Tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Previa. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
No, it isn't... You need: -20" breaker bar -torque wrench -Liquid wrench (or WD-40 if you don't have any) -Jack and stands -sockets to fit all of the connections
1. Remove the back seat: Bottom cushion comes out by pushing it rearwards and lifting, undo the 2 seatbelt bolts and 2 push nuts and remove the back cushion
2. Jack and support the frame of the car 3. Remove the wheels 4. Place a jack under the control arm where the spring connects to it and put a little tension on the spring. (this is so that when you unbolt the strut the control arm won't come crashing down) 5. Remove the air tube by rotating the spring clip 90 degrees and pulling on the tube at the connector. 5. Remove the lower strut bolts. (Exprerience shows me that removing the lower one first will save you lots of agony...) 6. Remove the two strut mounting bolts that are behind the back seat cushion. 7. Compress the strut and remove from the vehicle. 8. Installation is opposite of the removal. Remember to use a new mount if the one you are removing is worn. I recommend Quick-strut 171798. Good Luck!
P.S. Torque Specs are: Lower Strut bolts- 140 ft/lbs Upper strut bolts- 30 ft/lbs Mount to strut bolt - 70ft/lbs
Unfasten the retainer(s), then remove the hydraulic flex hose
bracket from the strut bracket. If equipped with ABS, the wheel speed
sensor cable routing clip is also attached to the strut assembly
bracket.
Support the rear knuckle, suspension and brake components before
removing the clevis bracket-to-knuckle attaching bolts. Do NOT allow
the weight of the knuckle and related components hang without support
when the strut is removed.
WARNING The knuckle-to-strut attaching bolts are serrated and must not be
turned during removal. Remove the nuts while holding the bolts
stationary in the knuckle.
Hold the bolt with a wrench, then unfasten the 2 clevis bracket nuts attaching the strut to the knuckle.
Fig. Fig. 2: Location of the knuckle-to-clevis bracket bolts
Carefully lower the vehicle, then open the trunk. Access to the
rear upper strut mount-to-strut tower attaching bolts is through the
trunk of the car.
If necessary, remove the carpet from the top of the strut tower.
Then, remove the rubber dust shield from the top of the strut tower for
easier access to the upper strut nuts.
Loosen, but do not remove the 4 upper strut mounting nuts. Then,
while supporting the strut assembly, fully remove the 4 strut mount
attaching nuts.
Remove the strut assembly from the knuckle by sliding the knuckle
out of the clevis bracket on the strut, then remove it from the vehicle.
Carefully pull the strut assembly out of the vehicle To install:
Position the strut back into the vehicle with the 4 studs on the
strut mount assembly through holes in the strut tower of the vehicle.
Install the 4 strut mount-to-body attaching nuts onto the mount studs.
Tighten the nuts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
Install the dust shield into the opening on top of the strut tower. Install the carpeting back on top of the rear strut tower.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Install the knuckle into the clevis bracket on the strut
assembly. Install the 2 clevis bracket-to-knuckle attaching bolts and
nuts. Hold the bolts with a wrench while tightening the nuts to 70 ft.
lbs. (95 Nm).
Install the brake hose bracket to the strut bracket and secure
with the retaining bolts. If equipped with ABS, the wheel speed sensor
cable routing clip is also attached to the strut bracket.
Install the wheel and tire assembly on the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts evenly, in sequence, to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.
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Removal & Installation
Apply the brakes and hold in place.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
Release the brakes.
Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
Remove the tie rod heat shield.
Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.
CAUTION
The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.
NOTE
Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.
NOTE
Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.
NOTE
The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
CAUTION
The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.
1.Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
2.Remove hub nut
3.Loosen, but do not remove, three top mount-to-shock tower
4.Raise vehicle on a hoist.
5.Remove tire and wheel assembly
6.Move brake caliper and wire out of the way
7.Remove brake rotor
8.Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut.
Discard cotter pin and nut
9.remove tie rod from knuckle
10.Remove stabilizer bar link nut, and remove link from strut
11.Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
12.Press halfshaft from hub
13.Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint, if required, for removal
14.Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from shock absorber strut
15.Remove three top mount-to-shock tower nuts and remove strut and spring assembly from vehicle
16.Compress spring with Spring Compressor
17.Place 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while removing top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet
18.Loosen Spring Compressor , then remove top mount bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring.
INSTALLATION
1.Place a 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while tightening top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
2.Install strut and spring assembly and three top mount-to-shock tower nuts
3.Install steering knuckle and hub assembly to shock absorber strut.
4.Install a new shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Tighten to 98-132 Nm (73-97 lb-ft).
5.Install halfshaft into hub
6.Install lower arm to steering knuckle ensuring that ball stud groove is properly positioned and boot seal is not damaged. Install a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
7.Install stabilizer bar link to strut and install a new stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft).
8.Install tie rod end onto knuckle.
9.Install a new tie rod end slotted nut. Tighten to 31-47Nm (23-34 lb-ft).
10.Install a new slotted nut retaining cotter pin.
11.Install brake rotor
12.Install brake caliper
13.Install tire and wheel assembly
14.Tighten three top mount-to-shock tower nuts to 30-40Nm (23-29 lb-ft).
15.Lower vehicle and tighten hub nut to 230-275 Nm (170-202 lb-ft)
16.Depress brake pedal several times prior to moving vehicle.
Jack up and secure front end of your vehicle,Take off two front wheels. Loosen to bolt on the bottom of struts (Its a bolt and nut). Remove clip that holds brake hose on to strut and remove hose. DO NOT OPEN BRAKE LINE OR DISCONNECT FROM CALIPER. Remove bolts and remove bottom of strut from knuckle/Hub assembly. Then loosen nuts on strut tower( on top of fender inside hood) (3) nuts, mark exact locations of each nut on strut mount area on upper fender weld. Make sure to hold strut on the bottom so it doesn't drop down on caliper and knuckle or on you possibly.YOU WILL NEED A SPRING COMPRESSOR to compress spring so you can take struts off. MAKE SURE THAT SPRING IN COMPRESSED/SQUEEZED WITH A STRUT COMPRESSOR. Then loose center nut on strut tower(may be covered with a circular rubber cover) If nut spin around with out getting loose use vise grips to hold strut rod ONLY TO REMOVE STRUT NOT TO INSTALL. if you use vise grips to install it will damage strut. When nut is off, remove strut and reinstall new one transfer all rubber boots and cushions from old strut. Good Luck thanks for using FIX-YA.com contact me if you need more help.
I just did that a few weeks agon on my daughter's 2004 Stratus Sedan. Same passenger side rear! The original factory part was **** and fell to pieces. The new parts are greatly improved. Buy two (2) because you will need one for the other side in the near future.
You will need a coil spring compressor for this job, some metric wrenches/sockets, and something to hold the top stud of the Strut when you loosen the nuts. I think the nuts inside the trunk are 15 mm and the big one at the bottom of the strut is 18 mm.
Check out moparpartsamerica.com/schematics/p/pm01495.gif for a great exploded view of the entire strut top to bottom. Go to the Auto Zone Web site and look up your struts and print the inspection and repair/replacement topics. Check the strut closely before you decide to put it back in, particularly if they have a lot of miles on them. I plan to replace all four struts next summer on my daughter's car.
I reused the old strut, but you need to decide if it is a good time to put new struts on for yourself. This would be a great time to do it if you need them. Look closely at the rubber bushings at the top of the strut and buy a new set if they are not really solid. I bought new ones when I did it.
Start inside the trunk by pulling back the trunk liner to expose the top of the strut and mounting bolts for the broken bracket. Spray all the nuts/bolts at top and bottom of the strut with liquid wrench a few times. Remove the two (2) outside nuts first. You will need a special socket to hold the end of the strut stud while you turn the nut off. I used a big pair of Vice Grips on the flats, but use the socket if you can get one.
That big bolt & nut that attaches the bottom of the strut will take some effort to remove. Use the coil spring compressor to take the load off that bolt before you try to remove it. The suspension component to the left of that bolt will need to be unbolted and lowered for the strut bolt to be removed. Good Luck!
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