Broke a bolt off while taking off the waterpump and drilled thru the threads on timing cover. The bolt was a main sealer for the waterrpump. Do I need a special tool to get the harmonic balancer pulley off?
SOURCE: timing cover replacement
A standard harmonic balancer puller will work. Remove the balancer bolt which is 15/16. Be sure that the large washer comes off as well. If you don't see the washer when you remove the balancer bolt, use a curved pick or something to remove it from the inside of the balancer. Then you can get the timing cover off.
SOURCE: cannot access two upper bolts to 1995lincoln towncar.
JERRY
My solution was different, i solved the problem myself, all by myself. I decided that since no answer worth looking at was forthcoming, I would do what I always do, find the solution. I decided that I would determine exactly where the bolts were, so I went and looked at a starter at a parts store. Then, seeing that the top bolt was 180 degrees from the other, I knew exactly where to feel in order to discover the location while under the car. I then decided that I needed to find tools that would allow me to just exceed the length of the starter, as there is a frame brace and a motor mount as well immediately in front of the flat end of the starter. I explored the top of the starter with my left hand and was able to feel the head of the bolt, (a 10mm bolt, by the way! as are the other two) I selected a 10mm deep well socket on a 3/8ths drive, and short extensions that, coupled to a small ratchet that dropped just below the bottom of the starter, allowed the socket to
extend far enough to engage the top bolt heads and short enough to allow movement without conflicting with the frame brace.
I kept my left hand in place and operated the ratchet with my right hand until I was able to remove the two top bolts.
Re installing the starter was a new problem, however. There is a retaining bracket bolted to the side of the block that holds the two transmission oil lines in place that is located between the block and the starter. That bracket impedes the placement of the starter when installation is attempted. The rear of the starter will not fit in the space allowed without the removal of that bolt and subsequent sliding of the bracket out of the way to allow room for the starter to slide forward far enough for the nose of the starter to fit back into the flywheel connection hole.Once the starter is installed, there is no problem putting that bolt and bracket back in place.
There is a difficulty that will be encountered when one attempts to place the top bolt back in the hole, however. Without some method of holding the bolt in the socket, the bolt will continuously fall out of the socket before it can be placed in the hole. There is not enough room to hold the bolt and place it in the hole with one's fingers. I solved that probem by covering the head of the bolt with a thick rubbery adhesive that was removed from the edge of a windshield and inserting it into the socket. That allowed the bolt and socket to act as a single unit, allowing me to put the bolt in the hole by keeping my left hand's little finger near the hold to guide the bolt into the hole I do not think I could have placed that bolt in the hole without the use of the adhesive.
I hope that these few guidelines will help someone else with the same problem.
SOURCE: 2001 lincoln ls harmonic balancer pulley out of
Your pulley may be coming loose. There should be a large bolt holding it to the Crankshaft. You would need to tighten the bolt and the pulley should draw back into place.
On some of the pulleys there may be a 2 piece construction with a thinner outer ring held in place by a rubber gasket ring. If the adhesive is slipping you need a new part as these should have been pressed on during manufacturing.
You'll probably need to use a large gear puller - the balancer may be forced onto the crankshaft by the center bolt.
Cylinder Heads
Engine oil
(blind hole)
Sealer
(water jacket)
65 ft-lbs.
Rocker Studs (screw-in)
Engine Oil
50 ft-lbs.
Oil Pump
Engine Oil
65 ft-lbs.
Oil Pan
Engine Oil
12 ft-lbs.
Cam Sprocket (upper gear)
Thread Locker
20 ft-lbs.
Timing Cover
Engine Oil
6 ft-lbs.
Intake Manifold
(Cast Iron Heads)
Non- Hardening Sealer
30 ft-lbs.
Valve Cover
Engine Oil
3 ft-lbs.
Exhaust Manifold
Anti-Seize Lubricant
25 ft-lbs.
Spark Plugs
No Lube or Sealer
20 ft-lbs.
Flexplate (Automatic)
Flywheel (Clutch)
Thread Locker
60 ft-lbs.
Clutch Pressure Plate
Thread Locker
35 ft-lbs.
Centerbolt
(Harmonic Damper)
Engine Oil
60 ft-lbs.
Bellhousing
(Transmission to Block)
Engine Oil
25 ft-lbs.
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