MY SAAB 9-3 HAS A SLIGHT METALIC CLINKING SOUND FROM LEFT SIDE OF ENGINE IN TIMING BELT AREA ANY SUGGESTIONS OF LIKELY CAUSES?

Here's a link to your belt diagram. 2000 Saab 9 3 Serpentine Belt Routing and Timing Belt Diagrams

You set the cam timing with the engine set to TDC, the cam wheels have a line which should be just to the left of 12 oclock, the ignition timing is controlled by the engine management system and is not adjustable.
HTH

Thee are 3 fuse boxes on the Saab 9-3:

1. Engine compartment near battery.

2. Open driver's door - it's under a cover at left side of dash.

3. Left side of trunk.

Might possibly be a leaking heater core or a freeze plug on the side of the engine. A small leak might be patched up with some radiator sealer but I would show the leak to the mechanic who repaired the cylinder head first. Hopefully he missed something minor and solve your problem with ease.

It's a belt:
Location SAAB 9-7x timing belt is located under timing belt cover. This cover is at the front of the engine and is behind the accessory drive belts that drive the power steering pump, alternator and a/c compressor.

For the L6-256ci 4.2L F/I Vin S the part number should be 6K905AP
For the V8-325ci 5.3L F/I Vin M the part number should be 4K365AP

Standard Answer for Timing Belts/Chains: 100,000 to 120,000 miles is when the Timing Belts/Chains start malfunctioning or failing. Some people want to go ahead and change them before malfunctions/failures happen.
I just replaced mine on 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan which just turned 100K. Most Timing Belt/Chain failures will cause more costly engine damage when these fail, including a need to replace/rebuild an entire engine.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

2 hours

If I4 probably the timing chain and or the top end of the engine is going. Need to have it looked at ASAP. If V6 also not good. Mechanic ASAP. Could be noisy accessory like water pump, alternator, etc. Have mechanic take the outside belt off and run the engine and see if noise is still there. If so, engine, if not, accessory.

have you tried bleeding the injectors by just cracking the unions until you see fuel leaking then tighten them as i stupidly run out of fuel and my 3.0tid wouldnt start even when recovery company tried and that is what it turned out to be an air lock

you will distroy the engine if you continue to let this noise happen.
the timing must be retarded to get the ping out if its that bad.
most of the time if its just a little bit though filling the tank with super unleaded will take out the noise.
the distributer must be loosend and turned in the correct way to ****** the timing and the idle must be put back up to compensate.
the distributer is the ignition timing.
the other thing that could have happend is the timing may have jumped time on the timing belt itself.this is a complely different timing.
this timing is valve timing.
the distributer is ignition timing.
when the distributer is turned you are changing the ignition timing .
you say in your text and i quote .

The service tech only adjusted the distributor fas far as he could to lower the idle.

a tech should never be turning the distributer to lower the idle nor should this be explained in any way to the customer.

if a tech says he dosent understand something stop them rightaway and get your car out of there or get someone else to talk to .
10 times out of 10 if the tech dosnet get it the car wont get it either.
have a competent service tech test and conferm the timing belt or chain timing .

keep me posted
[email protected]

thank you
jm