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If the starter isn't reacting at all when warmed up, that's usually your problem right there. After it cools down the armature in the starter allows the power to flow. BUT CHECK THE BATTERY & ALTERNATOR TOO! CK FOR ELEC SHORTS AT BATT.
Check that the battery terminals and posts are shiny clean and tight. Check for tight cables on the starter motor. This problem is an indication of a dry joint in the armature of the starter and the only way to check is to remove the starter and have an accredited auto electrician test the armature on a specific piece of test equipment called a "growler"
The armThe armature has swelled up from age. You will need to attached it to a lathe or a drill press and file the outer armature down abot .020 of an inch. Then reinstall and try it again. When the armature swells the armature will come into contact with the fields which freezes the starter when hot. You can take a small peice of a two by four and rap the starter when its is hot and doesn't want to work before you do this proceedure to see if I am right. I know this is your problem since I used to rebuild starters for a living
Clicking sound is the starter solenoid again and again pushing the starter motor armature forward against the toothed outer edge of the flywheel. Check the heavy cables and connections from the battery to the starter motor and the earth strap from the engine back to the frame. If everything is OK then remove the motor and examine the electrical striker plates inside the motor body...you will have to open the motor up on the bench. The striker plates are copper and when the solenoid pushes the armature the contacts hit the striker plates allowing heavy current to be drawn by the starter motor to crank the engine over. These striker plates wear out. Fortunately there are cheap kits that allow you to replace the striker plates. Once fixed the motor should last a good number of years. One pece of advice, clean the motor interior if you feel you have to but do not lubricate anything, it only attracts the dirt and this will kill the motor in short time.
Starter - There are like 2 or 3 bolts on most starters that are long and go into the engine block. Then there is the electrical positive connection which should be removed only after the battery has been disconnected to avoid shock and fire caused by a short in the electrical system when disassembling or assembling (warning: this a safety measure designed to keep you from hurting yourself or the car).
Assembly is the reverse of the removal. TESTING No-Load Test
Make the connections as shown in the illustration. Close the switch and compare the rpm, current and voltage readings with the specifications found in the chart located in this section.
Fig. 1: Proper connections for the starter no-load test
Current draw and no load speed within specifications indicates normal condition of the starter motor.
Low free speed and high current draw indicates worn bearings, a bent armature shaft, a shorted armature or grounded armature fields.
Failure to operate with high current draw indicates a direct ground in the terminal or fields, or frozen bearings.
Failure to operate with no current draw indicates an open field circuit, open armature coils, broken brush springs, worn brushes or other causes which would prevent good contact between the communtator and the brushes.
A low no load speed and low current draw indicates high internal resistance due to poor connections, defective leads or a dirty commutator.
High free speed and current draw usually indicate shorted fields or a shorted armature.
450 out of 600 what? sounds like you have somthing drawing power need an amp meter. remove key and leave window down. disconnect negitive battery cable and connect meter between the negitive cable and negitive termainal on the battery should see around 2.5 milliamp draw or less may take 1/2 hour to get to this point. also if this vechile is not driven often this could be the problem
Just spent 3 months w/same issues, i.e. intermittant starting on 95 tbird. All indications pointe to a starter solenoid/starter (a combo unit) which was replaced by Ford with rebuilt (new not available). Problem fine for awhile then continued so replaced ignition switch, park/neutral switch, checked all connections/cables/battery, checked for shorts/voltage drop. Finally discovered the "new" starter was intermittently bad. Ford replaced it only upon threat of small claims court. It worked fine on the bench but was not reliable. I suspect a cheap rebuild resulting in 'flat spots" on the armature... Never thought about a bad part and even when I did I had to fight to get it replaced.....
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