Transmision not work in revers gears
SOURCE: I have unlocked the transmision with my key in the
That is a result of the 'minor collsion' that can be fixed,. It is an adjustment on the cable for the transmission you can talk to a service person at a dealership and they can tell you where it is supposed to be. hope that give you some hope
SOURCE: 1998 honda accord automatic....when i change from
Make sure you report the problem to the National Highway Transportation Safety agency (www.nhtsa.gov). Also-research the web and you will find hundred similar complaints and a successful class action lawsuit in California against Honda for 1999-2001 Accord transmissions that showed the same malfunction code. The California settlement required Honda to repair transmissions and extend warranties up to 109,000 miles and 93 months.
These Transmissions are hard to FIX...I found very few rebuilders that can pull it off... They were recalled in 2000 ....sorry but it is no easy fix... the ONLY OTHER CLUNKING could be a problem is : your motor mounts are vacuum assisted meaning if you have a vacuum leak they will not stiffen the mounts correctly.... it sound crazy but look underneath you have small 5/16 vacuum lines near the radiator mount and some have it ont he firewall mount... I drive 99 Ex Accord!!!! rebuilt tranny 2 times !!!! make sure you get a warranty if you do...2000-2400 is a good cost....
SOURCE: 2004 honda accord driver side lock won't open remote
driver side has most use and breaks down quickest.
Typically, the lock wears, and should be oiled using graphite powder, not oil, as with most outdoor locks.
However, in winter moisture turns to ice and freezes lock.
In this case, try to squirt lock de-icer (usually this is methyl alcohol or some other type).
Don't use an alcohol (such as from drugstore) that also contains water.
that would make matters worse.
If you spray enough lock deicer or even a high-quality penetrating oil, you may be able to work key and lock to a point where you can turn it.
Don't force key rapidly or too strongly, as it will bend, and may break off in lock.
You can spray some alcohol or penetrating fluid on the key to work it into the lock better.
Sometimes, you can get at a frozen lock mechanism by spraying down into **** between window and metal door from above lock.
Sometimes, you might find that the door itself is frozen,
or the lock latch is frozen, and not the key-tumbler.
In this case, you can try body-checking (not kicking) the door,
to loosen the frozen edges around door and window.
If you can get into car from other side, you can sometimes open it from inside to break ice-jam.
If this is an electrical problem (only remote doesn't work)
The likely cause is broken wire in wire-harness from car body to door.
There will usually be a group of wires either inside a cable or bundled in a rubber tubing, going from car to door at front between hinges.
Here is where the electrical connection will be broken,
because the wires break eventually as they get flexed over and over.
IN this case, the only permanent fix is to find the wire (it will be color-coded), and replace at least 6 inches of that wire (it will probably be broken inside insulating sheath.)
Alternately, there may be an open-circuit at connector to door-latch solonoid. Here you might get lucky if you get inside door-cover off and wiggle or re-insert the plug connector.
Also possible that solenoid is just burnt out or open-circuit.
In that case it must be replaced, for the remote signal to effectively open door lock.
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