New switch clicks at motor need to remove???
SOURCE: 1995 Ford Explorer power window motor removal
You have to drill a hole in the sheet metal after you pull off the door panel. There is a dimple where the hole should be drilled. Make sure the hole you drill is big enough to fit the socket. I don't know why ford deigned it like this.
SOURCE: Window on my 2001 F150 went down & got stuck.
I am guessing that you have the door panel off already so take the window all the way up and take some duct tape and secure the window up all the way. Remove the front door window glass to regulator assembly bolts. Loosen the glass clamp fasteners through the 2 vertical slots in the inner door panel. To install tighten to 80 inch pounds. If equipped disconnect the front door window electrical connector. Remove the front door window regulator bolts to install tighten to 8 foot pounds. Remove the front door window regulator and motor. To install in reverse order.
While holding the button in the down position with the key in the "on" position tap on the window motor with a hammer. Or if the window is down, hold the button in the "up" position. If window starts working when you do this there is most likely a bad spot on the armature in the window motor or the brushes in the motor have worn out. Hope this is helpful. Good luck.
SOURCE: My F150 passenger window would not go up
Hello.... You are correct.... The motor it is....
Good Luck....
SOURCE: how to replace window lift motor for 1998 ford
if it powers down it is not the motor, Buy a switch, The switch just reverses power for motor to do opposite up or down
Testimonial: "window worked on it's own like vodoo, just not cranking down all the way anymore."
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/power-windows-will-not-go-up-and-relay.html
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Window fuse's and relay's may be up under driver or passenger side dash or behind glove box, under the hood and even under the seats, and finally on the ends of the dash. All passenger power windows and locks are controlled thru and get power from the master control switch on the drivers door.
Drivers door window gets used the most so it could be the motor, window switch, relay or fuse.
Could also be a broken wire in the rubber boot going from the door to the body. You will have to eliminate each till you find the culprit. Check that all switches return to neutral when released.
The motor and the relay are the most likely to cause this problem. Try swapping the relay with a working window relay. If it still doesn't work, remove the door panel and remove the window motor.
Turn the motor shaft in both directions by hand several turns. Then plug the motor in and see if the switch will now run the motor. Sometimes that's all it takes to get it working again. I have had to do this with brand new motors. If voltage is not present at the motor connector, either a bad switch or a broken wire exists. Make sure to check for voltage coming to that windows switch. Actually, GM use's a circuit breaker type relay for each window and one fuse for all the circuit breakers.
Try this....
Open the door, turn the key to the ON position without starting the engine and everything that makes noise is off. Lean down placing your ears close to the bottom center of the door or at the speaker grill. Press the window switch UP and DOWN. Listen for the window motor. If heard the drive is damaged. If not heard, turn key off and locate and replace the relay with one of the other window relays. Check window again. If it works now, get a new relay. More often than not, removing the motor and turning it by hand will get it working good as new. I have had to do that with Brand New motors! So try it.
If all has failed, with the door panel still off, check for voltage at the motor connector when pushing the window switch. No voltage means its the switch, especially if its a auto down or up switch.
Check the fuses and switches. Your owner's manual and fuse-box cover have fuse and switch diagrams. Look for the power window relay and power window motor labels. Tug out the fuse and check it for damage. Check the switches for deterioration or abnormalities. You can get a new fuse or switch at an auto parts store or super center and easily replace it.
Get out your tool box if you've eliminated fuses and switches as the cause of the problem. Now you have to remove the door panel to get a better look at your window's power source. For the driver's side and passenger-side doors, remove the door pad and inner moisture barrier. Use an upholstery-removal tool to help pry the panel off. The rear windows require that you remove the two center channel screws at the top of the door frame and two lower bolts in the bottom of the door. Check under the weather stripping if those bolts aren't evident.
Lower the window until the glass bolts are visible. Use the 10mm socket wrench to remove the bolts in the large and smaller access holes. Standing at an angle inside the door, tip the glass gently toward the outside of the door. Pull it out and set it in a secure place.
Access the regulator by removing the front channel and regulator mounting bolts. Older models have additional roller bolts.
Use a digital voltage meter to test regulator power before completely removing it. A reading of less than 12 means you have a wiring or switch problem. Recheck the fuses and switches. A reading of 12 means your wiring and switches are getting power to the motor, so the motor is inoperative for another reason.
Remove the motor and regulator. Wear protective gloves and keep your hands clear of the regulator gear spring. You can expect it to snap abruptly on removal.
Use oil to grease the roller guides and sliding surfaces of the regulator after removing all the parts. Confirm that the breather pipe is in position to keep water out of your new motor.
Advance the new regulator gear with your gloved hand. Use the collar and mounting bolt to secure the new motor in place. Replace the front door run channel.
Slide the window glass back into the door. Advance the regulator with the power window control in the door until the glass mounting bolt holes line up with the access holes. Replace the window mounting bolts.
Test for smooth operation of the window. The window should move up and down easily and form a tight seal when closed. Tighten or loosen window mounting bolts as needed.
Replace the liner and door panel. Dispose of the dead motor.
Remove the visible bolt from the left side of the arm rest.
Remove the window switch/door lock/mirror controls by popping the entire panel out, may need to use a flathead screwdriver.
Slide panel off of door.
Pull vapor barrier loose on the bottom right side. This will expose a coiled spring and window motor. Tape the window in the up position using masking or packaging tape.
Mark a straight line across the coil spring, to help with realigning the new motor.
Use tool j-38864 connect it near outer part of coil sprint where it hooks to retainer or in a pinch use pounted vice grips at same location ensuring they are firmly locked on spring.
Force spring clockwise to disengage it from it's retainer point.
Pull spring slightly outward just enough to clear the retainer point and slowly let it uncoil counterclockwise.
Disconnect wire connector from right end of window motor.
Push the three plastic retainer points outward as you lift up on window motor to disengage from retainers careful not to break the plastic retainers comes out pretty easy
Install new motor into the plastic retainers, make sure it is fully seated.
Reconnect wire connector to new motor.
Use J38864 or vice grips to recoil spring, reseating it to retainer point as before.
Remove tape from window and test up/down switch.
Reseal vapor barrier in place as it was before.
Slide switch control back up through hole in door panel from where it mounts and slide door over the door handle.
Align retaining clips to holes and push them home with gentle raps of your hand start at the top and work downward on panel.
Replace the bolts in the arm rest and pop back in the controls.
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