Last night i turned the the key and everything went dark and dead. I've had no other signs of needed repair. no check engine prompt . the power was on until i turned the key. then nothing.
You may have activated the anti theft device ! You need to use the key fob to lock and unlock the vehicle ! Then try it ! If no luck try You Tube !
SOURCE: 2005 DIAGNOSTIC ERROR CODE P0069, CRD ENGINE WONT
Are you traveling high ground like Rocky Mountain?
I will remove the ground cable for 4 minutes to reset all data in ECU.///clock and radio stations too : (
Let the ECU to relearn the local environment parameter.
Here's so info on how to prevent vapor lock
Ride with full tank of gas but NO TOP OFF.
Crack open gas cap carefully during rest stops to release / equalize gas tank pressure'
http://www.estes-park-information.com/vapor-lock.html
Good Luck
SOURCE: 2008 Jeep Liberty Won't Start and Sentry Key doesn't work.
check battery connections especially the ground
SOURCE: Install a 05 Jeep Liberty 3.7 in a 02 Liberty
BEFORE you put the engine in you must convert it with your old engine's crankshaft position ring and it's pick-up sensor. This ring can ONLY be changed with the engine upside down and out of the car. All rods must be disconnected, all mains are part of a cast saddle that must be removed, the front engine covers and all the timing chains must be removed, and finally the crankshaft must be lifted out and the ring must be hammer-unscrewed (impact screw driver, but I forget now if the taper-headed screws are allen, hex, star or phillips). DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME REMOVING THE HEADS. The ring is ENTIRELY different than the one the computer system on the 02 Liberty can recognize (this is what triggers your spark timing). Next is the magnetic pick up 'wheel' located on the front of the passenger's side of the over-head camshaft. This magnetic cup wheel triggers the '02 fuel injection system (don't un-magnetize it). Lastly, the '02 plastic intake manifold (w/ O rings for seals) for the '02 has an additional port, this is an easy swap-out. Mostly there are no gaskets- the finish is so fine they just use a factory sealer (comes in a tube). Buy it, it's cheap enough and it matches the factory's specs. Taking the engine back out/in is NOT fun, but with the engine on a stand, and with no time constraints it's managable (but still not fun). I made that exact engine swap myself and went through a lot of anguish learning all of this. By-the-by, these engines will NOT tolerate dirty oil. DO NOT EVER try and stretch out your oil changes, because they run really hot (due to the windage tray that prevents oil mist from coating the engine's internals) an ash will form and goop up the insides. The fine oil pick-up screen (drilled plate) will always clog up. If it's been a long time since the last change and your engine is still running fine, when you get around to putting in new high detergent oil it sorta un-sludges the goop and REALLY coats the pick-up. DEATH BY SUFFICATION. If you're ever at this point (no damage yet) I would suggest doing the oil change (before there's any knocking or signs the engine is failing) and I would do 2 more oil & filter changes @500 miles each; hopfully you'll dislodge the ash/sludge and get it out of the engine. Once damage has started it progresses very quickly- this engine is not very tolerant. Your oil will be gold color, and yet your enging will sieze because it can't 'get to it'. BEST OF LUCK- this is very do-able, but you might first investigate if you can swap out the engine management computor and wire harness and maybe avoid all of this above mentioned wrenching. No back ground info here, plus I didn't have access to the vehicle the 05 engine was snatched out of- sorry, and good luck again. One last bit of advice- I bought a zero miles engine from a National Highway Admin. crash/test vehicle. When I broke the engine down ALL the timing marks on all three chains were not aligned and had to ALL be set- I guess they might do that to prevent the parts from re-entering the 'system'? Or, some dumb s__t at the factory was new and/or pi__ed-off and this engine was just plopped in the donated/untitled crash vehicle rather than ripping it back apart and re-assembling it. The damn Jeep fired on the second crank and is running fine now (2 years later). Ciao4Now, Brian Fahey
SOURCE: I have a 2003 Jeep
I'm assuming that you are talkin about P0122 Code - Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
A P0122 code means that the the car's computer has detected that the TPS (throttle position sensor) is reporting too low a voltage. On some vehicles that lower limit is 0.17 - 0.20 volts (V).
Did you adjust it when you installed it? If the signal value is less than .17V then the PCM sets this code. Could be an open or a short to ground in the signal circuit. Or you may have lost the 5Volt reference voltage.
Symptoms may include:
* Rough or low idle
* Stalling
* Surging
* No/little acceleration
* other symptoms may also be present
Causes: A code P0122 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
* TPS not mounted securely
* TPS circuit short to ground or another wire
* Faulty TPS
* Damaged computer (PCM)
Possible Solutions: Some recommended troubleshooting and repair steps are:
* Carefully check the throttle position sensor (TPS), wiring connector, and wiring for breaks, etc. Repair or replace as necessary
* Check the voltage at the TPS (refer to a service manual for your vehicle for specific information). If the voltage is too low that is indicative of a problem. Replace if necessary.
* If recently replaced the TPS may need to be adjusted. On some vehicles the installation instructions call for the TPS to be properly aligned or adjusted, consult a repair manual for specifics.
* If there are no symptoms at all, the problem may be intermittent and clearing the code may resolve the issue temporarily. If this is the case then you should definitely check the wiring to be sure it's not rubbing on anything, grounding, etc. The code may come back.
Hope helps (remember comment and rate this).
SOURCE: 2005 jeep liberty engine misfire cylinder 5
A code P0305 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plug or wire
Faulty coil (pack)
Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
Faulty fuel injector
Burned exhaust valve
Faulty catalytic converter(s)
Running out of fuel
Poor compression
Defective computer
If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
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