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C/S windows just stopped working, checked all fuses-ok, and circuit breaker-ok, can give power w/ probe and make windows work ( powering threw red/blue tracer ) and all work, w/o extra power, no window op..any help ?
ever seen a voltmeter. for $10 at walfart. end guessing
discover volts. put volts in you life.
the battery is 12.6vdc charged, is it ?(rested volts)
do you get 12vdc to the motor, active.?????
i bet not. ! i bet like 6v based on "extra power, statment" Hot wired is the correct word. hot wired. all motors can be tested hot wired.
and the point of voltage drop is BAD> (resistive)
its that easy.
at the low voltage of the motor, pins, backup on the wire
point by point and when it goes to 12v active , 1inch from here, is bad wire, connector or switch,.
its RESISTIVE> and bad.
this is called voltage drop testing, google that for zillion hits
Testimonial: "Hey fossil, your answer was pretty arrogant, and since your probably as old as your name here, C/S stands for Customer States, and 2 extra power , as written, is from a power probe w/ voltmeter, but since your a Fossil, you probably dont own one of those...and finally, there was 0 V at the motor due to a accesory delay relay problem which you didnt even touch upon, please go back to school, and get some more training, OR at least get some anger managment classes !!!"
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Check in the under hood fuse block or power distribution center for fuse #72 and #75 these are 60 amp fuses. If the problem isn't there you have Two separate problems, check at the switches for battery voltage and ground. The most common problem is switches.
No fuse, there is a circuit breaker in rear fuse box. The rear fuse box seems to be under the rear seat cushion.
An easier way might be to check wire harness on hinge side of driver door. Probably has a protective rubber boot covering, pull the covering back far enough to check proper wire color. Orange wire is voltage for power windows, hot all the time. Use a test light to probe that wire for voltage. If voltage, the CB isn't the problem. You also need ground, black wire.
Sometimes those wires may break because you open and shut the driver door so much.
Did you check for battery voltage at the switch , with a volt meter before you replaced the main driver door switch ? Maybe you'll want to take this to pro ,instead of just replacing parts !
Symptom Chart
Condition
Possible Sources
Action
No communication with the smart junction box (SJB)
Circuitry
SJB
REFER to Section 419-10 .
A single power window is inoperative - driver front power window is inoperative/does not operate correctly
Power window motor regulator and motor
Circuitry
Window control switch
Smart junction box (SJB)
Go To Pinpoint Test A .
A single power window is inoperative - passenger front, left rear or right rear
Power window motor regulator and motor
Circuitry
Window control switch
Go To Pinpoint Test B .
All power windows are inoperative
Smart junction box (SJB) fuse 30 (10A)
SJB circuit breaker 10 (30A)
Circuitry
Delayed accessory relay
Battery saver relay
Driver window control switch
SJB
Go To
PINPOINT TEST C: ALL POWER WINDOWS ARE INOPERATIVE
Test Step
Result / Action to Take
C1 CHECK FOR CORRECT OPERATION OF THE INTERIOR LIGHTS
Turn on the interior lights.
Do the interior lights operate normally?
Yes
GO to C2 .
No
To continue diagnosis, REFER to Section 417-02 .
C2 CHECK CIRCUIT 400 (LB/BK) FOR VOLTAGE TO THE DRIVER WINDOW CONTROL SWITCH
Disconnect: Driver Window Control Switch C504b.
Key in ON position.
Measure the voltage between the driver window control switch C504b pin 4, circuit 400 (LB/BK), harness side and ground.
>
Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
Yes
GO to C4 .
No
GO to C3 .
C3 CHECK CIRCUIT 400 (LB/BK) FOR AN OPEN OR SHORT TO GROUND
Key in OFF position.
Disconnect: SJB C2280c.
Measure the resistance between the driver window control switch C504b pin 4, circuit 400 (LB/BK), harness side and the SJB C2280c pin 17, circuit 400 (LB/BK), harness side; and between the driver window control switch C504b pin 4, circuit 400 (LB/BK), harness side and ground.
>
Is the resistance less than 5 ohms between the driver window control switch and the SJB; and greater than 10,000 ohms between the driver window control switch and ground?
Yes
Go To Pinpoint Test H
No
REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation.
First check the power window fuse and relay.
The fuse is located in the underhood fuse box, it is maxi-fuse G (30A) {actually its' a 30A circuit breaker}. Make sure that power is getting to the circuit breaker using a testlight. Also check to see if power goes through the circuit breaker by checking its' other terminal while a partner operates (or attempts to) the power windows. If power goes in to the circuit breaker but does not come out, replace the circuit breaker. (some circuit breakers reset after a while, but I'm assuming you've have this problem for a while, so you're past the time it needs to reset)
Anything can go bad, but to my knowledge circuit breakers seldom do. If you have a test light, pull the circuit breaker and probe both terminals for a power signal, with the key on. One terminal should show voltage with key on. If not, check the power distribution box for a blown maxi-fuse, or the wiring from that box to your fuse panel. BTW, no, no relays are in the window circuit. So if the circuit breaker has power to it, put it back in and check for power on the driver's door master switch-one wire on the master should have voltage with key on. If no hot wire to the master switch, check inside the door openings for a broken wire. If you do have one hot wire there. check the power windows ground-the ground wire for the power windows originates at the master switch and goes back into the cabin to a nearby ground. Put one lead of the test light on the hot wire (key on), and probe the ground terminal at the master switch-if your ground is good, the test light will light up. If the ground is lost, no light. Check for a broken ground wire in the door opening, and/or find the ground and see if it is bad. If the master switch has a hot wire and a good ground wire, replace the master switch.
If no power to the fuse panel for that fuse and circuit breaker, you may have a maxi-fuse burnt out in the power distribution box by or near the battery. Check all your fuses under the hood.
Turn the ignition on but don't
start the engine. Operate the windows from the master control switch. If
none of the windows work, check the main fuse or breaker for the whole
power window circuit. If only one of the windows is inoperative, go to
Step 3.
2
Check the main circuit relay
using a test light. If voltage is coming out of the relay, there is an
open or short at the wire feeding power to the other switches. If no
voltage is coming out of the relay, use the test light to make sure
voltage is reaching the relay. If voltage is reaching the relay, replace
it. If there is no voltage reaching the relay, there is an open or
short at the wire between the relay and the main fuse.
3
Check the circuit fuse or
breaker at the inoperative window. If the fuse or breaker is okay, go to
the next step. If you can hear a humming sound as you press the switch
but the window does not operate, either the motor is bad or its gearbox
may have broken teeth. Go to Step 7.
4
Turn the ignition on but don't
start the engine. Using a multimeter, check the master control lockout
switch for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the lockout
switch. With some vehiclemodels, problems at the lockout switch can cause both rear windows to fail.
5
Try the switch at the
inoperative window and check for continuity using a voltmeter. If there
is no continuity, replace the switch.
6
Check for voltage at the switch
using a test light. If voltage is not reaching the switch, there is an
open or short between the incoming wire and the fuse or breaker for that
circuit power window.
7
Take off the trim panel from the
inoperative window. Check for voltage at the motor with a test light
while pressing the switch. If there is no voltage, there is a short or
open at the wire between the switch and the motor. If the circuit is
equipped with a relay, test for voltage reaching and coming out the
relay. Make sure the relay is working properly. If voltage is reaching
the motor, go to the next step.
8
Detach the window from the
regulator and inspect the regulator mechanism by moving the window up
and down by hand. Make sure nothing restrains the mechanism. Also,
inspect the motor gearbox. Replace any parts as necessary.
There is a power accessory relay under the hood or inside the fuse block/power distribution center that feeds these accessories. The relays wear out, rendering everything they feed inoperative. ChryCo often used the same part/numbered relay for several locations in the Power Distribution Center on numerous ChryCo-branded vehicles, including Jeeps.
IF BOTH SIDES ARE INOP CHECK POWER SOURCE(FUSE/CIRCUIT BREAKER).IF THESE ARE OK CHECK RED OR PINK WIRE IN DOOR OPENING FOR A BREAK IN WIRE CAUSED BY NORMAL OPENING AND CLOSING OF THE DOOR. THIS WIRE IS IN BLACK BOOT LOCATED IN DOOR HINGE AREA. THE WIRE FEEDS THE MASTER SWITCH. AFTER PULLING BOOT BACK A LITTLE GENTLY PULL EACH WIRE. WIRE WILL PULL OUT AND EXPOSE BREAK IF THIS IS THE PROBLEM. HOPE THIS HELPS! :)
You checked the DRVMDL fuse in the rear fuse box ? The rear fuse box under the back seat. Also the PWR WDO circuit breaker in the rear fuse box.
Power Windows Inoperative - All
Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No
DEFINITION: All power windows inoperative from all door window switches.
1
Was the Power Door System Diagnostic System Check performed?
--
YES - Go to Step 2
NO - Go to Diagnostic System Check - Power Door Systems
2
Remove the PWR WDO circuit breaker.
Using a DMM, measure the resistance between circuit breaker terminals.
Is the resistance within the specified range?
0-5 ohms
YES - Go to Step 4
NO - Go to Step 3
3
Replace the PWR WDO circuit breaker.
YES - Is the replacement complete?
--
NO - Go to Diagnostic System Check - Power Door Systems
--
4
Using a DMM, measure the voltage between both rear junction block PWR WDO circuit breaker #57 terminals and ground.
Is the voltage within the specified range for either measurement?
10-15 V
YES - Go to Step 5
NO - Go to Power Distribution Schematics .
5
Repair CKT 1040 for an open or high resistance at rear junction block.
Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Power Door Systems
×