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The ECM maybe stuck, disconnect the battery and wait 5 mins then reconnect.
Other things that normal cause high rpm at idle:
PCV hose to throttle body has a leak
vacuum line to brake has a leak.
the throttle plate maybe dirty and is open partly
the IAC is bad. Which is on the throttle body.
the throttle plate sensor is bad, just unplug it and see if the rpm goes down. If it does, replace the sensor.
the egr value maybe stuck
bad front o2 sensor
bad coolant senor. You should have this replace since the original sensor where plastic tip and crack. The new ones has a brass tip. the transmission and air( IAT) have the same sensor part.
once all the coolant leaks out your temp gage wont be accurate because there is no contact with coolant and the sensor that takes the temp reading. broken serpentine belt, weak belt tentioner, clogged cooling system
There is a sensor in the coolant overflow tank and when the antifreeze gets below that line the warning light comes on. When the coolant level is falling below that line it means the coolant is going somewhere and not staying in the system. Leaking radiator, water pump, hoses, heater core, bad gasket all come to mind. Generally you will see a green or orange stain on the ground where the car is most often parked, that will lead you to where the leak is. But it may only leak after it is warmed up and running so you would have to examine under the hood to find a stain there.
this is a job for an HVAC mechanic is the whole system has to be pumped out first, belt tension released, pressure lines removed, unit unbolted, new unit put in place, lines reconnected, system has to be pumped out of any air AGAIN, oil charge put in, system has to then be leak tested, pumped out yet again, then coolant charged assuming there is no leaks. and for the $500 you are paying for the compressor, its better to get an HVAC tech to do the job because if it all goes to hell on you, the repair bill will be on the shop that did the job to replace it for you.
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