Cranking problems battery and terminals replaced, sometime it runs good others it won't crank at all

Sep 28, 2014
too old, to post ...? seems not.
check pump voltage at the pump cranking.
then if that fails to be 11v.
then at the fuel pump relay, cranking, (the big pink wire is it)

FI fuses
and ig-coil fuse must be good.
and the CEL lamp glow key on, or ECU may be dead.(ask)
always test with a $10 volt meter,
voltages matter, test lamps were great back in 1950/60.
these cars love to have, like 6 or 8v on the way to the pump, due to rust on the connectors.
the meter shows this truth, and never a lamp.

If you mean the car won`t turn over then you could have a bad starter motor/solenoid. check voltage at the large wire terminal on the starter it should be battery voltage. then check voltage on the smaller wire terminal it should be battery voltage only when cranking. if not you will have to check out the wires for lose of voltage. make sure the starter has a good ground. if these are good then you have a bad starter that needs replacing.

• Okay, a clicking sound is the solenoid engaging the starter drive gear but the starting motor is not turning over. First possible is low battery. Second is bad or dirty connection, usually battery terminal. Good enough to energize solenoid but not enough amps to spin starter. Third is a bad starter motor, usually a brush corroded, worn or stuck.
• Lift the hood and look at the battery terminals. if they are clean and tight, check the battery for charge. I usually hook a booster on and try cranking the engine over. ZIf it works, charge or replace the battery.
• If it didn't crank, Take a jumper cable and connect the one end to the battery positive. Touch the other end to the starter motor terminal. Motor should turn over, if not, replace the starter.

ill answer for NO ELECTRICAL POWER :
sure and is easy with any DMM meter, got one? any $20 DMM.
my guess;1
engine will not crank
dash lamps out.
head lights out. dead.
post systems of electrical system , all parts that work and those that dont work, and problem is easy.
cleaned battery terminals.
tried borrowed battery that reads, 12.6vdc ? (charged is 12.6)
2012 that is in warranty car.... ?
my guess on 2012
jumping a car, that is battery jump starting.
a battery can short, and no jump start on earth will start shorted battery in car. but does lay down some big sparks, or burns up cheap walmart cables.
if the car will not crank, say just that, my starter motor will not crank
jump started from live running other car.
if true then make sure headlights work , if they dont work fix that first.
HL must always work, even keys in pocket.
best is to put a fully charged battery in the car, jump starting can cause
surges that can damage sensitive electronic$$$, do jumps as a desperate measure,
with a charged battery,
1: Head lights work, no fix that , use voltmeter
2: cranks robustly.
no , wiggle shifter lever, (on A/T cars the park switch blocks cranking) On M/T the clutch blocks cranking.
with any dMM
measure battery voltage before crank and during.
12.6v good. reseted.
cranking.
0 to 10v bad (weak battery or shorted starter motor)
11 and above good. and must crank, if not , starter is bad.
to prove starter is bad, check voltage at starter solenoid coil wire lug.
it must be at 11v cranking , below 8v it chatters, and fails.
if at 0v cranking this lug that means the Key start line is failing.
A/T switch not closes, or bad ignition switch.

Even though all your other electrical bits are working it could be that your battery doesn't have enough juice to crank the engine. It doesn't take much power to run the radio, lights, etc, but cranking the engine requires the battery to have a very strong charge. If your battery is more than 5 years old, that's very likely the issue. I'd start there. Also, be sure to check the battery terminals and ground for corrosion and clean if necessary. If replacing the battery doesn't solve the problem it could be the starter solenoid or a loose electrical connection somewhere.

you should check on your battery cables,chasis cables, and engine bay cables related to your ground or bad connection in between connectors, terminals or hubs.

This is typical of two more common problems; a weak battery (12 volts when not cranking the engine isn't enough) or corroded battery clamps or terminals. Probably #3 is a corroded starter or solenoid terminal.
While cranking, the starter draws from ~120-200 amperes of current and any even mildly corroded connection in the path will drop all of the voltage. 0.1 Ohms of resistance will drop nearly all of 12 volts when trying to start.
Check voltage across the battery terminals (not the clamps) while cranking, not without a good load drawing current. If you have less than 10 volts, most cars will not crank but only cause the solenoid to chatter (=clicks).
If you disconnect the battery for any reason, disconnect the negative (ground) cable FIRST to avoid accidentally contacting the positive terminal and ground with a tool which may melt and/or damage the battery.

there is a relay that goes to your fuel pump, u might wanna try replacing that and see if that helps your problem. if it doesent than i would try replacing the fuel pump itself. hope this helps you and have a good day :)

Define "won't start"? Is it cranking but won't fire up, or is it just not cranking at all? If it is not cranking at all I would check to make sure that your battery terminals are tight and all the connections to the starter soloneid are tight. Also check the connections on the starter, fords are notorious for loosening up to the point that the vehicle will not start. If you still have the same problem you can take a screwdriver and hold it accross the terminals on the starter solenoid on the fender. If the starter engages then your solenoid is bad and you need to replace it. If that starter does not engage you have a starter problem. I would also verify that all of your ignition fuses are good.

If you truck cranks but does not start that could be other problems. You would have to check for fuel and spark.

there is a relay that controls the spark and fuel. its sometime by the battery or under the dash right of the glove box. two relays in one pack you can replace both with seperate ones good luck i got stumped on one like that