P0108 and p0106

SOURCE: 2002 egr valve problems

That would be exactly what I would look for... When the catalytic honeycombs become blocked, it causes a build-up of exhaust pressure... and this restriction in the exhaust will also have a very definite effect on engine performance: The typical symptoms are an engine that initially seems to running okay, but slowly loses power.. in severe cases it will lose power to the point the engine stalls and will not restart until the pressure build up bleeds off.

Good luck with the problem --- it sounds like you are on the right track. And don't forget to rate my advice: your approval is my "paycheck"!

Thanks!
-WildBill

SOURCE: 2004 Mazda RX-8 PO455

It will not go off by itself,you will need to reset it by connecting to a diagnostic tool.Once cleared if there is any other problem then it will trigger the check engine light again.Hope this helps..

SOURCE: my chk engine light came

your vehicle is driving good, not slipping etc... because what i can see from what im reading you have an electrical problem with the transmission wiring.. check the plugs that plug in the transmission, and follow them, im sure you will find something skint up somewhere.

Jeffrey Turcotte

• 8991 Answers
• Posted on Jan 19, 2011

SOURCE: cel came on Sun. code

Hi, this code is usually caused by the MAP sensor. Does the engine hesitate when you step on the accelerator? If yes, that's a bad MAP sensor. There is a test you can run on the MAP sensor, but you would need a voltmeter and a vacuum pump/gage. I have pasted the procedure below. The MAP sensor is under the spark plug cover and looks like the picture below.
The PCM is next to the battery. If you don't have a vacuum pump/gage but you do have a voltmeter, you could use your mouth to pull a small vacuum on the sensor just to see if it's actually functioning. The voltage on the yellow wire should drop as vacuum is applied to the port. You will need to have the key on and back-probe the connector to measure the voltage (put the other voltmeter terminal to engine ground). This will not prove the sensor is calibrated, but if it doesn't work at all, you will know to replace it. A new sensor costs $67 at autozone, so it's worth a few minutes to check the old one out. Please let me know if you have questions.

Removal & Installation

1. Remove the battery cover.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the plughole cover.
4. Disconnect the vacuum hose.
5. Disconnect sensor connector.
6. Remove sensor mounting screw.
7. Remove the sensor from intake manifold.
8. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tightening torque to 32 in. lbs.

Testing

1. Remove the MAP sensor with the sensor connector still connected
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the sensor.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
4. Measure the voltage at the PCM terminal No. 2AL and ground. Voltage should be 2.69-4.37 volts.
5. Install a vacuum pump to the sensor and apply 8.86 in. Hg to the sensor. Voltage variance should be 1.16-1.27 volts.
6. If not within specification, check connectors and wiring between MAP sensor and PCM. Repair/replace as necessary. If ok, replace MAP sensor
7. If within specifications, replace PCM.

Testimonial: "Dear Guru,I don't have any hesitation during acceleration,but I will try the test.I noticed the air cleaner is dirty.could that be it?"

SOURCE: code poo31 showing and what

P0031 Oxagen senser heater circuit. The heater circuit can be checked with a test light connected to ground. ( a tast light is an ice pick looking tool with a clear handle with a 12 volt bulb inside and a ware with a clip to connect to grond, the light will light as the tip is touched to anything powered up with 12 volts and sometimes a little more and a wholde lot less) Find the oxagen sensers ( thier screwed into the exhaust pipes) Disconnect the electrial connectors and connect the test light to ground, with the key on test the wires in the plug connect ed the vehical. one of them should light the light, if it does reconect it and test the rest of the sensers, recalling which wire was live. ( most are white or grey but they vary some. If all the sensers have power it's not the power but the senser failed. with an ohm meter test the senser for the wire that was hot to the other wire that is the same color if the sneser is open ( no circuit ) you have found the bad senser. If you can't find power going to any of the sensers. Check the fuse boxes for blown fuses ( check them all with a test light) If you find a blown fuse replace it but go back to the wiring tjat connects to the sensers and you'll find someplace where the wire melted to the exhaust pipes and shorted out, blowing the fuse. The sensers short out too but not very often.