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After I drove for 35 minutes on a freeway the manual gearbox seemed to seize. Could not put lever into 1st gear or reverse. There was no crunching noise or abnormal gear noise. After an hour with engine off the gearbox was back to normal, driving well up to 2 weeks after.
Check the selector levers for wear and possible jamming or if you have the lever directly into the top of the box then check the lever pivot pin in the turret of the gear box.
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Didn't get info on which car or van your working on but a lot of gearchanges can jam due to heavy handed gear changes check top of gearbox turret remove screws se if end of gearchange stick has broken off remove and look inside box get large screwdriver and lever cutouts in selectors and lever into line and if stick not broken then refit some ford transit turrets seize and stick in gear lubrication is the answer also transit has a crosspin that snaps needs retapped if cable or lever make sure not seized
problems with a clutch system will result in grating first gear or reverse gear as the input shaft is still being turned by the engine. 2nd gear is syncro operated so any mismatching of gear speeds will be overcome by the syncro ring of the gears. By double de clutching you state that the problem is eased somewhat and this indicates that the gear box is at fault ( shaft bearings, syncro rings, gear teeth ) hard movement of the gear lever would indicate failed gear cable ,linkage or gear lever pivot problems. What you describe is a gear box fault. I would take it back and tell them to fix it or exchange it . Keep all records of conversations and dealings as you may have to get legal help to have the shop full their warranty agreement. Time to remove ,repair and replace a gear box would not exceed 12 hours in an accredited shop
I'd start by looking at the clutch hydraulic circuit. "...could not put gear into 1st or reverse" suggests that the change cables on the transmission may be failing. And just in case, make sure there's nothing in the cabin that's jamming the gear change lever.
It sounds like the slave cylinder for the clutch needs to be bled out first (it uses brake fluid) then if this does not help replace the clutch slave cylinder unit before transmission damage ensues. You must bleed out any air in the system after replaceing similar to how brakes are bled in acar with an assistants help.
Make sure your emergency brake cable hasn't seized up. Some vehicles use reverse to adjust the brakes. Try moving the vehicle with the clutch pushed in, then with the clutch out to make sure it is not sticking, check your shifter linkage to make sure it is not bent or sticking.
Hi there. Although the Dealer has changed the oil, did they do a 'Stall Test' whilst the gearbox was cold and again when at normal running temperture? If not, that's what they must do firstly. This will identify whether you have a slipping clutch/s. The Honda autobox also includes what is known as accumulators - these control how each clutch is engaged during acceleration. For example, if you are accelerating slighly/smoothly, you want each gear to be engaged gently and smoothly, whereas, when accelerating hard, you need the gear engaged quickly and hard to aviod clutch slippage. Thus, the fact that you are experiencing a hard engagement might mean that an accumulator/s is seized. If that's the case, it will mean that the autobox will need stripping, cleaning and be checked for worn components. Hope this helps, Scottech.
I had the clutch replaced which seems to have rectified the problem.
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