Originally my starter in my LHS wouldn't stop engaging. I could take out the key and it would continue to run. Eventually the ignition fuse blew. I replaced the ignition switch. The ignition fuse continued to blow. I found that the ignition wire needed to be repaired. I assume it fried when the starter kept engaging. I repaired the wire, and now the fuses are fine but now the starter will only spin without fire. Also my down door lock and horn do not work and my interior beep (like you hear when your lights are on) is continuous when the door is open. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Hey thanks for sharing this information.
Sounds like you have the starter wires hooked up wrong and to continuous power. If starter shuts off with the key now, but wont engage the motor, you may need shims so that the starter drive lines up with the motors fly wheel
SOURCE: Vehicle Won't Start
The solution to this problem was simple, embarrasing and frustrating. The dome light was left on, and discharged the battery....enough to prevent the ignition from firing apparently. I did not suspect this, because the starter would turn the engine over very well, for a long time, and would do this repeatedly. In all my experience, I have never seen an engine spin that well and not start. According to the dealer, the voltage was too low for the ignition to work. While I do not know the exact threshhold where the voltage is too low to crank, I could have detected the condition by checking the voltage at the battery while cranking. It should have been significantly below 12 volts, indicating a low battery. The tow truck driver who picked it up simply used a portable battery to jump it off and cranked it with no problem. The symptom of the starter continuing to run after releasing the key is new technology with computerized controls, and is normal nowdays. You don't really notice this because the engine usually fires so quickly that it is undetectable.
SOURCE: No Start
unhook starter solenoid wire and see if fuse still blows if not then starter is shorting out
SOURCE: 2002 Sebring LXi Convertible Starter Motor Fuse Blown 2x
Starter solenoid. I don't have the page here but in chiltons a page shows the ignition to fuse to relay to starter and if you look closely it's quite basic. I had same problem with constant fuse blow #8. The solenoid over time wears and sometimes sticks. When it sticks, your system can overload thus burn fuse. I bet you never stalled out while driving, but only when you shut off and start somewhere it's a no go. That's because you're system is already engaged. I had to change starter as solenoid part of it all. I see others suffer this same problem so please share this around. Solenoid can stick for a millisecond.
SOURCE: 2001 Sebring convertable, 3.3L, Turn the key
you have a crossed wire thats blowing the fuse. Check all wires to the starter also to the fuse box and to the battery
If these wires are properly attached, then check for power and/or damage to wires. The secondary will only energize when the ignition switch is engaged, so you'll need help (test when not attached to starter).
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