Steering angle sensors

• Axle Shaft nut - 177 ft-lb
• Hub and bearing assembly to steering knuckle bolts - 133 ft-lb

2003 chevy silverado 1500 4.3 v6. Changing steering rack and

https://www.justanswer.com > ... > Chevrolet Repair
Jan 11, 2021 - Below are the torque specs you requested: Steering Rack-to-frame mounting bolts: 136 lb. ft. Outer tie rod nut: 37 lb. ft. Outer tie rod ...
1 answer · 1 vote: Coupler clamp bolt to the intermediate shaft: 33 ft. lb.

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  Torque specs for tie rod end castle nuts - JustAnswer

  https://www.justanswer.com > chevy > 2p3g8-torque-sp...
  Oct 24, 2009 - Tighten the clamp nuts 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) (except C3HD). On C3HD models, tighten the clamp nuts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm.

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if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

did you read the FSM/
it covers all that, and more.
or at alldata.com
did you follow all steps, including the Match marking?

ill try to find it....

here is the page that tells you what went wrong.
A service replacement clockspring is shipped with the clockspring pre-centered and with a molded plastic locking pin installed.
This locking pin should not be removed until the steering wheel has been installed on the steering column. If the locking pin is removed before the steering wheel is installed, the clockspring centering procedure must be performed.
When a clockspring is installed into a vehicle without properly centering and locking the entire steering system, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) data does not agree with the true position of the steering system and causes the Electronic Stability Program (ESP) system to shut down.
This may also damage the clockspring without any immediate malfunction.
Unlike some other Chrysler vehicles, this SAS never requires calibration.
However, upon each new ignition ON cycle, the steering wheel must be rotated slightly to initialize the SAS.
Determining if the clockspring/SAS is centered is also possible electrically using the diagnostic scan tool.
Steering wheel position is displayed as ANGLE with a range of up to 900degrs.
Refer to the appropriate menu item on the diagnostic scan tool.
Before starting this procedure, be certain to turn the steering wheel until the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position and that the entire steering system is locked or inhibited from rotation.
The clockspring may be centered and the rotor may be rotated freely once the steering wheel has been removed.
(at the least, read the rack R&R pages first)

Have to reset the angle sensor, I would guess

Have to check for codes & data with professional scanner,
in enhanced mode

If you changed the rack, it has to be aligned,the shop should
do what is necessary

A 5 year old vehicle should not need any of that work for years
---so why are those parts worn out?

You do both lower ball joints, not one side,like when you do a
wheel hub bearing, you do both sides

Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Could be your tie rods coming out of the rack and pinion and attached to the wheels. Grasp the tie rod near where it attaches to the wheel and see if you can shake, twist or move it. If you feel any play or looseness at all in the tie rod joint, then it is worn badly. Both outer tie rods at each wheel should be replaced. If the outer tie rods are tight, you can't move them with your hands, then have a shop check your inner tie rods for wear. Have them check the ball joints for wear, also. Or you can raise the wheel off the ground. Be safety conscious. Grab the tire at top and bottom. Can the tire move in and out, feel play in the lower ball joints? Any side to side play in the wheel? Maybe you can spot the looseness at the tie rod or balljoint. Maybe you'd better let a shop look at it.
A CV joint wouldn't have those symptoms. A wheel bearing possibly, but usually accompanied by a grinding noise. Have it checked out.

Lower ball joints

Moog #K500084 --for ball joints

Possible worn inner or outer tie rods or bad
steering rack

Worn inner tie rod joint,on the steering rack

If you go to an alignment only shop, not some
chain store, with an alignment rack,they will
change it for you, if it can be done

Then you have to set all the front end adjustments

Don't let them pitch you, a complete rack assy
Moog-- makes those inner tie rods, and you put your
good outer joint on it

drag link is the bar! between the tie rod ends and has connection to the pitman arm if it is bad the joint where it hooks to the steering box/ pitman arm will shake when you put your hand on it to move it

Remove wheel
Remove axle nut
Remove outer tie rod nut
Leave outer tie rod nut on 3-4 threads
Hit spindle area where tie rod is mounted very hard with a large hammer (wear Saftey glasses)
The tie rod should loosen up and you remove it off spindle.
Remove lower ball joint nut
Leave nut on 3-4 threads
Hit spindle area where ball joint mounts (wear saftey glasses)
Carfully pry down the lower control arm too remove ball joint from arm.
Press in the axle towards the trans. out of the wheel bearing.
Place a piece of wood between the shock and inner fender to give yourself room to work.
Remove the three 15mm bolts that hold the wheel bearing on.
Hit wheel bearing out with hammer (wearing saftey glasses)
You may need to break a sweat on this part. Somtimes they are rusted in.
Be carfull not to damage the ABS sensor.

Reverse procedures to install