Testing a disconnected EGR valve.

You can disconnect the battery for 5 min but you lose the codes. Try to use OBD scanner to get a code and what the problem is.

The car's wiring can be tested in the normal fashion (see our article on Automotive Circuit Testing here), and all vacuum lines can be checked easily for cracks, leaks and correct routing. the easiest way to test the 3 remaining components: the EGR valve, EGR vacuum regulator and DPFE sensor (or similar flow sensor). So if you have a scan tool hook it up and let's go, if not read on and we'll get around that too!

Anon, disconnect vacuum lines,wires, etc. and unbolt EGR from intake shown in 4th video link. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
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The most likely cause is that the EGR valve position sensor is defective. But testing is required to confirm this.

a tune up. did you do the service on the car.
filters, spark plugs?
did scan it, to see what DTC errors are set? that is required.
and 02 sensor can die at 100,000 miles the design life span. "bosch"
which engine, option.
1.4 L I4 (petrol)
1.6 L I4 (petrol)
1.8 L I4 (petrol)
2.0 L I4 (petrol)
2.0 L I4 (diesel)
we can not help you , unless. engine is stated and country.
www, the world wide web, make it so we can NOT guess any of that.

the ECU/PCM on your car goes to GREAT efforts to prevent stalls.
the top reason for stalls are:
1: never doing the service per listed items in the glove box guide.
2: EGR stuck open. (if your's has one, some dont)
3: lean air fuel mixture, (lots or reasons and tests)
4 gross rich air fuel mixture casing gross misfiring and stalling.

or something worse. there is always that. eg: burned head valves. etc.

a used engine may be the way to go. call junk yard or look on ebay for one. u can also just get a used engine head instead of redoing yours it would be a lot cheeper. I think 1500 is to much just for parts for a 2005 car

Should be under the valve cover

What code ? are a few different ones for EGR valve > Low & high circuit voltage , testing circuits , PCM testing etc.... no code tells you to replace the EGR valve without testing . Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop.
DTC P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Flow Insufficient
DTC P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Solenoid Control Circuit
DTC P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Open Position Performance
DTC P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Position Sensor Circuit Low Voltage

Hello, This Code means there is a problem with the Electric solenoid that controls Vacuum to your EGR valve. It can mean a vacuum line is off or the EGR valve itself is leaking.

If you have any Vacuum test gauges you should disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR and attach a vacuum source and try operating the EGR valve. If the valve moves and holds vacuum, then your problem is upstream in the vacuum lines and solenoid. If the EGR valve leaks and will not hold open with vacuum applied to it, the EGR valve is bad.

It is a little more difficult to test the solenoid because some engine controls will not activate the solenoid unless the car is in gear and above a certain speed. Some of the solenoids work on small voltage (3V) so applying 12 volts will melt the internal parts. Use an Ohmmeter for bench testing the Solenoid.

Many of the parts stores such as Autozone, Oreillys, and Advance have tool loan Programs which for a deposit, can supply you with test tools. The actual EGR may be tested if the counter-person will do it for you and can be done on the car. It varies place to place on what the stores policy is for testing.

I hope you found my solution very useful in fixing your vehicle.

Nope, disconnect the battery before install and reconnect it when your done.