I have a 1998 jeep grand Cherokee and so far I have changed out the pcm, crank shaft sensor, idle air control valve, distributer, spark plugs, throttle position sensor, and it still will not idle? when scanner is hooked up it still says crank position sensor? I replaced it with a factory one that I bought from Chrysler jeep, is there any other problem I should be looking at im out of ideas and almost money
Still bad. still guessing?
GUE$$ is the most expesive thing there is, why not post full symptoms and ask for help. all we have here is (bad idle) why not post all symptoms good and bad. knowing both cuts the job by 100 fold. after all we cant drive it .
all sypmtoms hot and cold engine. good and bad. idle, cruising, up hills. ALL symptoms.
most never is the PCM bad. nor dizzy.
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SOURCE: PO171 OBD-II Trouble Code " System Lean To Bank 1
Check PCV valve and be sure it is not stuck open. Check for vacuum leak at intake manifold.
SOURCE: 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Lardo misfiring
You say you changed the cam sensor. A1391 code is a crank sensor on the top of the trans. bell housing.
SOURCE: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee code P1391
I would check to be sure that the timing chain hasn't jumped at all ..
SOURCE: My 2004 jeep grand cherokee pulses! But only when
Have the idle mixture motor replaced and clean the throttle body intake, throttle plate, and that throttle linkage you see on the side of the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. Also, dump some complete fuel system cleaner in your gas tank and fill it with premium for a change, you cheap bastard.
SOURCE: 1996 Jeep Grand cherokee 4.0 liter runs rough at times.
I Found that the outboard PCM cover screw was shorting out the circuit board.
Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didnt matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didnt have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and its all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. Im a trusting soul, but lets see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, We dont know what it could be, good luck with that. Now my wife knows why I dont go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, its showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I dont recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didnt even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldnt stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldnt start! That was the point when my wife asked, Hows it going? And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, what the ----? Thats when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on. DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I cut the screws (1/4 long, factory screws are 1/2 long Torx head) with a pair of wire cutters, and shes been running great ever since.
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