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This is pretty much what the booster looks like. The brake master cylinder is connected to the two studs on the left. You only need to remove the studs and pull the master cylinder aside, being careful not to damage the brake lines. There will be a vacuum line attached to the engine compartment side of the booster as well. This must be disconnected. The rod extending from the bellows on the right is inside the vehicle and it connects to the brake pedal with a clip of sorts. Remove the clip and disengage the rod. Then, remove the two nuts holding the booster to the firewall (on the studs facing to the right, and pull the booster from the engine side. Installation is done by reversing the process.
Since you are not specifying the car make. model, and year all I can do is generalize. Most boosters attach through the firewall with two bolts. The nuts to remove them are up under the dashboard and can be a pain in the a$$ to remove. Of course you must unbolt the master cylinder from the booster as well. Other than that removing the vacuum booster hose is all that's left to do and them the unit pulls straight out of the firewall.
The canister is located in a frame behind the left rear wheel, and you will need wrenches, a socket set, and a jack to raise the back of the truck. Carefully remove the hoses from the canister - if you damage the quick connects, you will have a big problem. Then remove the canister frame by removing the bolts holding it (remove the screws holding the left rear plastic wheel well to get access to the front of the canister frame). Remove the old canister from the frame, attach the new canister, and then reinstall the frame.
If you are having a problem with the EVAP system, you should also check the hoses and replace the EVAP purge valve and the EVAP solenoid valve ( typical failure points on these vehicles - if you have a problem with one component, the rest will follow shortly after). The purge valve is located on the bottom of the vehicle near the center of the rear axle (just follow the small purge hose attached to the canister). The vent valve is located on the top right side on the engine. All parts are available from Amazon or a GM dealer.
are you getting a spongy feeling & no brakes? first answer these questions & it may solve your problem as boosters rarely fail
Did you bleed the brakes?
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder ? if not you can bleed the brakes for a year and never get a pedal.
to bleed the master remove it from the car just the master not the booster. clamp it good in a vise ,you should have gotten a bleeder kit with the new one , 2 hoses and a couple of fittings, find the fitting that fits, tighten it hand tight attach the hoses to the fittings and place the other end of the hoses in the master below the fluid line ,take a phillips screwdriver and pump the plunger on the master untill you see no more bubbles, leave the hoses attached intill you reinstall it. attach the brake lines and bleed the brakes starting with the passenger side rear , the driver side rear , passenger front ,driver front, in that order. good luck.
The power brake booster is a tandem vacuum suspended unit. Some
models may be equipped with a single or dual function vacuum switch
which activates a brake warning light should low booster vacuum be
present. Under normal operation, vacuum is present on both sides of the
diaphragms. When the brakes are applied, atmospheric air is admitted to
one side of the diaphragms to provide power assistance.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1994-97 Models See Figures 1 and 2
Apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
Remove the master cylinder-to-power brake booster nuts, then
reposition the master cylinder and combination valve out of the way; if
necessary, support the master cylinder on a wire to prevent damaging the
When removing the master cylinder from the power brake booster, it is
not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic lines, therefore the brake
system should not have to be bled.
Disconnect the vacuum hose from the power brake booster.
Fig. Fig 1: Common power brake booster attachment
From under the dash, remove the retainer and washer from the brake
pedal on 1994 utility models. On all other models, remove the retainer
and brake switch from the brake pedal.
Disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal.
From under the dash, remove the power brake booster-to-cowl retaining nuts.
Back under the hood, remove the power brake booster and the gasket from the cowl.
Position the booster to the cowl using a new gasket.
Install the booster retaining nuts and tighten to 16 ft. lbs. (22
Nm) 1994 utility models, 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) on 1994 pick-up models and
27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm) on all 1995-97 models.
Connect the pedal pushrod and install the washer or switch and the retainer.
Connect the vacuum hose.
Fig. Fig. 2: Checking the piston booster rod using the gauge tool
For all vehicles covered in this guide, gauge the booster rod:
Apply 25 in. Hg (85 kPa) of vacuum using a hand held vacuum pump or apply maximum engine vacuum.
Check the maximum and minimum rod lengths using J-37839 or an equivalent pushrod height gauge.
If the piston is not within limits, install a service adjustable piston rod and adjust it to the correct length.
Reposition the master cylinder and combination valve bracket to
the booster studs, then secure using the retaining nuts. For details,
please refer to the master cylinder procedure located earlier in this
Start and run the engine, then check for proper booster operation.
That sounds like a brake booster problem. The brake booster runs on engine vacuum to help make the brake pedal easier to push and easier to stop the tahoe. When a booster develops an internal leak, you can hear the vacuum escaping through the leak when you step on the brake. The engine stalls because the vacuum leak in the brake booster also causes a large vacuum leak for the engine.
To verify that this is actually the problem, go outside the vehicle with the hood open. Find the large brake fluid reservoir attached to a large round metal black (usually) canister on the driver's side of the firewall. (back of the engine compartment.) There is a large black rubber hose pushed into the top of the black canister, which is the vacuum line attached to the brake booster. Pull the rubber hose out of the grommet on the booster and stick your finger over the hose. Have someone start the tahoe. You will feel a considerable amount of vacuum pulling at your finger, and if you take your finger off the hose, the engine will stall. Also have someone step on the brakes while your finger is over the vacuum hose. If the noise is gone then you know the problem is in the brake booster. Don't forget to re-attach the vacuum line to the brake booster. Failure to do this will result in the engine running very rough (if at all) and the brakes will require excessive effort to try to stop the tahoe.
Sounds like you have a leaking brake booster. The booster is what supplies the power assist to the brake pedal and is located in between the firewall and the brake mater cylinder.
Eventually it will get bad enough to cause either the check engine light to come on for lean codes or cause the engine to start to idle poorly and possibly affect you ability to apply the brakes.
This is a relatively simple repair. You can remove the master cylinder from the booster. Leave the brake lines attached. Most of the time you can gently move the master cylinder out of the way and the lines will bend or flex with the movement. You only need to move the master cylinder just enough to squeeze the booster in and out. Then remove the vacuum line from the booster.
The booster is held to the firewall with four nuts that can be accessed under the drivers side of the dash. First remove the rod that attaches the booster to the brake pedal. Then remove the nuts that hold the booster to the firewall. Remove the old booster and install the new one.
Hi- Check your large - very large black hose that goes to the Power steering booster. The booster sits right in front of the driver under the hood and is black - round and large. It has a hose that goes to it from the intake area of the truck - this hose has to be - in good shape - capable of holding a vacuum and attached at BOTH ENDS.
Replace if necessary. This should fix your problem
please vote me 4 hands up of this is a fix for you.
Your power brake booster is bolted to the rear engine compartment, or firewall, from the inside , so you need to disconnect the rod from the brake pedal, and locate and remove the bolts that hold it. You also have to unbolt your brake master cylinder too.