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Check engine light came on, then temp of engine ticked all the way up. Once I started moving it moved back to a normal level. Once in the garage I popped the hood and noticed there was no coolant. I filled the coolant up, and drove with the a/c on and the check engine light was still on, however the temp never moved above the 50% mark.
Any idea what it could be? I thought it might be a loose hose but wouldnt more coolant solve that problem?
First thing you need to do is determine where the coolant went and why. Once that is corrected, then you can begin looking for any other problems caused by the overheat. First thing you need to do is determine where the coolant went and why. Once that is corrected, then you can begin looking for any other problems caused by the overheat.
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Re: Check engine light came on, then temp of engine...
You have to find the leak. The Check engine light is probably on for engine over temperature. You will need a scan tool to confirm. Look for a leaking waterpump or thermostat housing on those models.
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I would guess that there's an issue with the coolant temp sensor...it's a pretty common occurance.
Scan with OBD II to verify the code to be certain, but it's an easy part to replace. Good luck!
Tough to say without a fault code read out. There was a nice service information bulletin about your instrument lighting up like a christmas tree that lead to an engine harness. Your thermostat could also do that. As long as your check engine light NOT on and your coolant level is good, then you should be ok to drive on it. While a jammed thermostat will sometimes not set a fault, it could over heat your engine. With the vehicle COLD, try opening the expansion tank then starting the vehicle, if you see a small jet of coolant then your water pump is good.
This is the "Low Oil Pressure Warning" light. It is RED for a reason! When this light (or any RED warning light for that matter) comes on, pull over and shut the engine OFF at once. Allowing the engine to run with insufficient oil pressure can cause a catastrophic failure in mere seconds. Such a failure can cost thousands of dollars to repair. This warning is most often the result of a very low oil level as indicated when checking on the oil dipstick. The engine oil level should be maintained as close to the "full" mark as possible - without exceeding it. Oil should never be allowed to drop below the "low" mark on the dipstick. If the oil level is shown to be between full and low, the light is probably coming on as a result of a faulty oil pump (the oil level should be checked with the vehicle parked on level ground, with the engine OFF). A faulty oil pump is unable to pump the oil with enough pressure to reach all the moving parts of the engine that require lubrication. Without proper lubrication, connected moving parts heat up, expand and seize. Moving parts are expected to move - not be prevented from moving. If your engine shut down, it may be the result of some of the internal parts seizing. Hopefully, this is not the case. Check the oil level and top off as needed to bring the level up and attempt to start the engine and have the vehicle checked by a trusted mechanic. Good luck!
Get an oven thermometer, run the car untill the check light goes on, using a multilayer rag slowly open the radiator cap one notch.If if the cap wiggles loose & no steam comes out , you can fully remove it. Put the thermometer into the liquid coolant , if temp is 180 F (+- 20), the problem is electrical. If steam comes out its a cooling system problem. Use commonsense in doing this. Probably the gague is faulty.
this is simple, when the engine is idling there is no air going through the radiator to cool the engine ,but when the car is moving there is air going through the & cools the engine, the problem might be that the fans are not coming on that is why the temp. goes up to 245deg.you will need to find out why the fans are not working, maybe a blown fuse or faulty temperature sensor the activates the fans......hope this helps......cheers.
Does the car have a normal oil level on the dipstick? The behavior is consistent with a broken timing belt except for the part about the temperature gauge going to the top which would indicate overheating or a faulty gauge.
1st check the coolant level. If it's low, what you describe will happen. If level is ok, let me know, and include info on engine temp gauge--how long to warm up, is gauge at warm up low temp range, normal, or hot?
You have two fan's on your truck, 1 is a fan clutch runs with the drive belt, 2 elec fan motor, with test light and engine running at normal temp, just a little bit above 1/2 way on your temp gauge check voltage at elec. cooling fan harness if you have voltage at one of the two wire's and fan don't turn on, bad cooling fan motor, on the fan clutch after you check voltage at elec. fan motor turn engine off, with your hand spin drive belt fan if it spin's freely bad fan clutch, replace it.Also check cooling level.Hope this was very helpful
This can be a sign that your coolant level is not adequate. It can also be a sign that your Temp Sending unit is bad. Oviously the first thing I would do is to go through the coolant level check of pulling the radiator cap (on a cold engine) and adding a mixture of 50% anti-freeze, and 50% distilled water until the coolant fills to the top. I typically run the engine with the radiator cap off until it gets to or close to full operational temperature (typically 190-210). When close you should see that the level has dropped after the thermostat has opened and circulated the coolant. Add additional fluid until the level stabilizes at the top again. Once it stablizes at the top replace the radiator cap. Check and make sure the temp gage is reading normal operating temperature. If you only have a light make sure it is not illuminated. You should know this better as you are used to driving the vehicle. If there is still in indication problem then look at other things like the temp sending unit. This is normally found screwed into one of the cylinder heads with a wire coming out of it. One way to check it is an ohmeter to the connection terminals. They don't cost but $15-60 dollars.
There are others issues that can be going on like a bad/worn or broken water pump drive belt (accessory drive belt, serpentine belt), or a bad water pump generally noted by coolant leaking out of weap hole on the bottom near the input drive where the pulley is at. There are other issues that could be causing this, but we won't go into those here (assuming your vehicle hasn't shown more serious indicators).
First thing you need to do is determine where the coolant went and why. Once that is corrected, then you can begin looking for any other problems caused by the overheat.
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