Printed circuit boards

Yes.. If oil gets into the circuit board it can damage the diodes and circuit board. Oil can also carry other damaging minerals and debris into the Alternator.

When vehicle stalls, the dash lites may come on.
Make sure battery has a full charge, battery connections all good. Make sure charging system is working properly.
Use a test lite and check voltage to fuse circuits in fuse box. Some fuses circuits are hot all the time, some go hot with the key on. Right now, I can't tell if you have problem with battery--battery connections--charging system--fusible links--ignition switch or what? You need to do some testing. Let us know what you find?

What is year--make--model?

1st disconnect the battery from the circuit board and charge the battery separately. Then reconnect the battery and see if it resets itself normally.

If you have a voltmeter, check the battery. Replace if it is below 2.7 V (should be about 3 V). If changing the battery doesn't work, check out this video: Renault key card easy fix ignition key save 300 GBP - YouTube

Note one thing: the person in the video is not observing electrostatic safety handling precautions. Do not touch any of the circuitry with your fingers except the battery contacts or printed foil connected directly to the battery; otherwise handle the circuit board only by the edges. If you must use a non-insulated tool, touch it to a battery contact before applying it to the circuit board to discharge any static electricity carried from your fingers. Carelessness in this regard could damage the integrated circuit, leading to immediate or eventual failure.

Change all your relays,especially in the engine bay,check your idler control valve/servo for faulty or short circuited.Also check all the fuse boxes for contamination,Spray with circuit board cleaner or something similar.

Initially it sounded like the typical dash gauge cluster solder problem on the main wiring harness of the dash circuit board, and possibly a low battery charge. Both very easy to fix. Your further description makes me think it might be the BCM (body control module). This is a bit more involved. If the battery is fully charged and battery cables are clean and in good condition, do you get any engine cranking or clicking sounds at all? If not, then I would strongly suspect the BCM. I fixed mine by taking the BCM out of the vehicle (not really too difficult) and locating a resistor on the circuit board labelled 331. There is only one of them with this number. I re-melted the solder on each end of this resistor, and have had no further electrical 'ghost gremlin' problems ever since. (over a year now) You may need to do the same with the solder joints on the dash gauge circuit board wiring harness. This problem has to do with defective solder used around that time period. I had to use these fixes on both a 1996 and a 1998 Voyager. Please post any other questions or diagnostic info.

use a digital voltage meter on the battery to verify the 'spikes', Jeep Wrangler gauges are notorious for being erratic (I have a 98 TJ, how's your gas gauge working?)-

the printed circuit board gets weird due to water leaks that find their way to the back of the pod from the top of the roof seal, so it is not unusual for gauges to act strangly.

If that is not the case, it is time for a new alternator.

here you go hope it helps,dont forget to vote on answer thanks
88–95 3.0L (Except Monaco, Premier & Stealth),
3.3L, 3.5L & 3.8L Engines
11
Engine Has Not Been Cranked Since Battery Was Disconnected{4}
No Crank Sensor Signal During Engine Cranking{3}
12
Memory Standby Power Recently Lost
13
MAP Sensor Pneumatic Circuit
14
MAP Sensor Electrical Circuit
15
Vehicle/Distance Sensor Circuit
16
Loss Of Battery Voltage Sense
17
Engine Running Too Cool
21
Problem In Oxygen Feedback Circuit
22
Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit
23
Charge Temperature Sensor Circuit
24
Throttle Position Sensor Circuit
25
AIS Motor Drive Circuit
26
Injector Current Limit Not Achieved
27
Injector Driver Interface Circuit{1}
Injector Control Circuit{2}
31
Purge Solenoid Circuit
32
EGR Diagnostics
33
A/C Cutout Relay Circuit Or A/C Clutch Relay Circuit
34
Fault In Speed Control Solenoid Driver Circuit
35
Fault In Fan Relay Circuit
37
Part Throttle Unlock Solenoid Driver Circuit
41
Fault In Charging System Or No Field Current
42
Fault In ASD Relay Driver Circuit
43
In Ignition Coil Control Circuits
44
Lose Of FJ2 To Logic Board
46
Battery Voltage Is Too High
47
Battery Voltage Is Too Low
51
Lean Condition Is Indicated
52
Rich Condition Is Indicated
53
Internal Problem In Module
54
Fault In Distributor High Data Rate Pickup Circuit{1}
No Sync Pickup Signal{2}
55
End Of Message
62
Unsuccessful Attempt To Update EMR Mileage
63
Fault Error{1}
Controller Failure EEPROM Write Denied{2}
65
Manifold Tuning Valve
66
CCD Bus System
77
Speed Control Relay Circuit

{1}—1988–91 models.
{2}—1992–95 models.
{3}—1990–95 models.
{4}—Neon.
If you need more just ask Thanks Db

What I would do first is to make sure the battery is not now upside down.
Then I would take a rubber pencil eraser and gently clean the contact surfaces of the remote's circuit board where they touch the battery. Then I would take the transmitter circuit board out and using the eraser rubber clean the contacts under the rubber push buttons and their corresponding grids on the circuit board. If still no luck I would take it to a dealer and have them test it. If no work you can buy them used very cheap on ebay, and have the dealer charge you to reset the vehicle to recognize the new remote..

It is always safer to charge the battery out of circuit, Removal of one cable will insure you can safely charge without hurting electronics on board. Generally if your battery is already sufficiently charged it acts like a capacitor in the circuit and will prevent damage, but many battery chargers do not always put out a pure dc voltage and this can damage electonics.