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First, I'm not a EW Tech.
* Check your warranty and call for service.
*** The following is for information only.***
* Most power loss and low power stem from blown fuse(s), broken or burnt wires and/or connectors. Locate and replace bad wire.
* Problems with charge or gradual power loss is usually the battery system. Since this is most likely a Lead Acid battery (flooded or Gel) then those need to be checked (load tested) and replaced. Do not expect these batteries to last forever. Most will last about +200 charge cycles. Less if the battery is stressed (deep discharged,High temperatures, Over charged).
* Lead Acid batteries concider a charge cycle to be when ever charging. Even if the charger is removed prior to a full charge and discharged, this is still a charge cycle. Short charging is not recommnded. Top off charge is a cycle charge.
* Follow your MFR charging instructions.
* Check Battery; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgEiNp8l_PE
* Check Fuses; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgK2l6cMCc4
* Review EW36; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_NcgxUgAvE
* you may want to upgrade to Lithium Ion Battery Pack (with BMS) which will have a higher cycle rate (+1000)
My car won't charge my battery ? Check the alternator (charging system) . You put new cam & crank sensor an timing belt on for a charging system problem ? Or after you did this stuff ,now the charging system isn't charging the battery ?
Hi,normaly the green light says that the battery is fully charged,so if its red it might be that its charging but not fully charged,but saying that if it dose not charge after some time then the red light can mean its not charging,just food for thought,all the best.
check the charging system and battery to make sure these are working properly. if the charging system is not working then the alternator will have to be check and possibly the PCM as the PCM controls charging voltage and the alternator continuously tries to run a max. check for a code in the PCM related to charging. this may help finding the problem.
You are correct on all accounts. A high number means you dying battery is sucking more juice from the Schumacker. A low number means the battery is not as thirsty. That's how I always think of how to read the meter on mine. Slow charge is a better, deeper charge. The quick charge will get you going, but you should maybe follow it up using the normal mode - car alternator and prolonged drive time. I never use quick charge, personally.
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