Just lost mobility of my gear box, bars com loose on gear box a pin that holds gear box drive shaft in place

Without better information, I will assume you are saying the distributor gear has teeth missing or stripped. While replacing the gear is easy, you should first determine why it is damaged. You failed to mention what engine you are working on, but be aware that roller cam engines require a different distributor gear than non-roller types. In either case, bring the engine to TDC with cylinder #1 in firing position. This can be found by either putting a compression gauge in the # 1 spark plug hole, or have someone gently put a finger over the plug hole to feel when compression is pushing air out. Next, mark the position of the distributor body to the engine, and remove distributor and examine gear to find the roll pin which holds the gear in place. Set up some wooden block to hold the end of the gear without blocking the roll pin and using a punch smaller than the pin, hammer the roll pin out being careful to catch the pin on a cloth beneath your work. Obtain the correct replacement gear and install it on shaft using a small screwdriver to hold it in place. Check for excessive end play of distributor shaft and add shims if needed. Reinsert roll pin, then reinsert distributor, making sure that the rotor points to #1 plug connector on cap. The distributor will rotate some as it drops into place, so this may take more than one try. Note: if the distributor will not go all the way in, it may be necessary to use a flashlight and look down the hole where distributor goes to see the shaft the bottom of distributor must align with. You can use a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump drive shaft if needed. Install distributor hold down and tighten just enough to allow some resistance to turning distributor. Start engine and adjust timing.

Final note. Reasons for distributor gear damage include: stuck oil pump; bad cam shaft gear area, bad bearings in distributor or other distributor problem; and even a very worn timing chain causing crazy vibration (rare).

place engine on TDC by putting crankshaft balancer groove in line with timing cover pointer slot this is located between water pump and power steering pump then remove cap mark rotor pointer location for install indexing then remove drive pin onshaft that hold drive gear on mark gear to put on the same way remove shaft replace sensor reassemble

if i was here before you got it fixed i would say you could do it yourself. here's how: drop the drive shaft, open the rear end, pull out the axles, and just spin the pinion back and forth with your hand to feel if it's loose, if it is it's the barrings holding that. before taking it apart to get to that you should watch the pinion move inside the rear end to see if it's moving vary far without moving the ring gear. that would be what you were thinking it was(if it's just a little movement it's likely just a pore shimming job) before calling yourself done, it's good to push on the differential to try to wiggle it in order to check it's barrings too. i hope this helps someone..

when removing the front axle i believe that you must open the front differential cover and inside the dana you will see a small 8mm bolt located on the spider gear center it holds the pin bar in place and the pin bar holds both the upper and lower gears in place with a small washer below them. be careful when you pull the pin bar out to make sure the gears stay in place (upper and lower) do not let the washer fall out of the spider cage assembly. Then, carefully slide the U pin that holds the axle in (there are two of them one for the left axle and one for the right). Once the U pin slides off the axle the axle should slide all the way out of the whole differential - Note if the U pin you see at the end of the axle does not come off easy just push the axle IN ward towards the center of the differential and then slide it out with a small screw driver ..

inside the rear end,you need to remove the rear inspection cover from the rear end.have it jacked up and blocked for safety,and put it in neutral,you will see a slide bar in the center of the rear end it goes in between the side gears.rotate the drive shaft around until you see the end of the round slide that has a 5/16 bolt going thru it. loosen that bolt but don't remove it yet,rotate the drive shaft until the slide bar is almost down at the bottom,but just enoughup to be pulled out and clear the housing.use your left thumb to hold slide bar from falling out while you remove the 5/16 bolt,now let the slide bar fall out to you while your pulling on it.
"VERY IMPORTANT"= don't let any one turn any rear wheels while the bar is out or you will sping the spider gears right up and out of the rear end.
Now have someone push the axle in towards you,when they do a C clip will fall of the axle,you will need to recover it with your fingers or a magnet ,You can now pull the axle out,you will see the groove the C clip was in,When you reinstall push the axle in onlt try not to turn it,you might have to a little to line the splines up,when the axle is pushed in the whole way,insert the C clip and you hold it there while someone pulls outward on the axle that will put the C clip in it's seat,then reinstall the slide bar,you may have to wiggle it a little or just barely turn the drive shaft to get it to go in,reinstall the 5/16 bolt and tighten,install new cover gasket and refill.good luck

It is likely both your track bar and the lack of a steering gear box stabilizer. The bushings on your stock track bar can be replaced with polyeurethane or metal bushings which will help curb the problem.
The steering stabilizer attaches to your steering gear box and your frame allowing the steering to be more stable. I have put both on my truck and it drives like a caddy now as a result. If I had to choose between the two items, my money would go to the steering stabilizer first. I believe I bought mine here:
http://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-powerperformancedodgesteeringstabilizer.aspx
Hope this helps

Hi there. If by gears you mean the splines on the end of the half shaft, you need to seperate the lower ball joint, if not done already, put the splines in the hub first and then hook the new bearing hub up to the lower control(ball joint) with the shaft already in place.

Hi, you need to apply some presure to it but it will come out ,try a pry bar , C1

the front drive axle on one side may have not been installed all the way in to the transmission, check to see if it is loose and have some one look under front end with engine on, front end jacked up, emergency brake on and in gear to see if a axle is turning. if one is and yhe other is not put the car in park and turn\ roll the wheel that was not turning by hand if it rolls your problem is most likley to be the axle has come loose from the transmission