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Is it choking out as in black smoke at the exhaust or just not wanting to accelerate? This engine is bulletproof mechanically so that leaves fuel and ignition. It runs smooth so ignition is probably good, I would suspect the fuel filter or fuel pump. I hope this helps. Take care.
Cranking at a slower speed is often a sign of being out of time. That might explain the popping and backfiring, too. You need to use a timing light. Make sure it is set to specs. If it is set at the correct time, and the advance is working (you can check that also with the timing light), and the problem still exists, then I would recommend doing a compression test of the cylinders, to spot any problem with the engine's mechanical condition.
When you put new points on, did you also use a new condenser? You certainly should. And since the points burnt out, how about the spark plugs, do they need changing as well? Part of a tune-up is to make sure the gap on the spark plugs is correct.
If you are inclined to work on your car, buy a vacuum gauge for just a few dollars. These are real handy for the older cars. Here is a link on how useful it can be:
hmm, little difficulty...go to secondchancegarage.com , look at their menu and choose "How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge". A neat little tutorial on what you can see from a vacuum reading.
Factory setting was 2 degrees advanced, but most ran far better at 4-6 degrees. Limit on timing is how far you can go without hearing any detonation when you "get on it" under a load. When you reach that point, back off a few degrees. Advancing the timing lights the fuel in the cylinders early. At speed, the time it has to fully burn is very short. The sooner you light it, the better the chance that all fuel is converted into usable energy instead of going out the exhaust. The limiting factor in this is fuel quality as most available fuels are nowhere near the quality they were when your engine was produced.
A tune up in most cases has nothinf to do with a check engine light, unless the engine is missing, go to Autozone or Kragen auto and ask to have the OBD system checked for trouble codes, then post them here and we will look at them, the test by the way is free.
Check the ballast resistor (white ceramic block about 2 in long on the firewall, they are about $2. (You may be depressed you spent the $$ on a tune-up for a $2 part if it solvs the problem, but hey, it needed a tune up anyway.) There are two types of resistors so pay attention to what it looks like & how many wires. It controls the spark when the engine heats up and is in the coil circuit. You don't say, but make sure the rotor turns when you crank it over. The B-block is a very tough engine but if the cam or the distributor drive gear are broken might cause the symptom as well.
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