Hello DTC P0341 & P0133 very common saturn Codes.You need to check condition of Plugs & wires,If not New Replace All Plugs & Wires,also I would replace the #1#4 Coil for the P0341.For the P0133 Reaplce your front O2 sensor with an OEM sensor,not an aftermarket.
It is a chain and its not the easiest but it could be worse.It is as follows: 1.9L SOHC Engine
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Right front wheel and splash shield
NOTE: Place a 1 in. x 1 in. x 2 in. long block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
A/C compressor from the bracket and set aside with the lines attached
Camshaft cover
Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
Front cover oil seal from the cover
NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past Top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
Remove or disconnect the following:
Timing guides and tensioner
Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
Crankshaft sprocket
To install:
Inspect the chain for wear and damage. Check the inside diameter of the chain, it should be no more than 16.77 in. (426mm). Inspect the chain guides for wear or cracks and the timing sprockets for teeth or key wear. Replace components as necessary.
Verify that the crankshaft keyway is positioned 90 degrees clockwise past TDC (keyway at 3 o'clock). The keyway should align with the split between the bearing cap and engine block.
Bring the camshaft up to No. 1 TDC by loosely installing the sprocket and rotating the sprocket until the timing pin can be inserted. The camshaft contains wrench flats to assist in turning the shaft. The dowel pin should be at 12 o'clock when the camshaft is at TDC.
Install the crankshaft sprocket, then rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 90 degrees up to No. 1 TDC (keyway at 12 o'clock).
Position the chain under the crankshaft sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket. The timing chain should be positioned so that 1 silver link plate aligns with the reference mark on the camshaft sprocket and the other aligns with the downward tooth (at the 6 o'clock position) on the crankshaft sprocket. The letters FRT on the camshaft sprocket must face forward, away from the cylinder head and excess chain slack should be located on the tensioner side of the block.
Install or connect the following:
Timing pin to verify proper alignment of the camshaft and sprocket. Torque the sprocket bolt to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
NOTE: Do not allow the camshaft retaining bolt to torque against the timing pin or cylinder head damage will result.
Timing chain guides with the words FRONT facing out. Install the fixed guide first and verify the chain is snug against the guide, then install the pivot guide. Torque the bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) and verify that the pivot guide moves freely
Retract the tensioner plunger and pin the ratchet lever using a 1⁄8 in. No. 31 drill bit inserted in the alignment hole at the bottom front of the component
Tensioner. Torque the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm), then remove the drill bit
Make one final check to verify all components are properly timed, then remove all timing pins.
Install or connect the following:
Seat a new front cover oil seal using the installation tool with a press
If the engine front cover casting or assembly is replaced, the 3 torque axis mount studs should also be replaced. Torque the new studs to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Right front wheel and splash shield
NOTE: Place a 1 x 1 x 2 in. (25 x 25 x 51mm) block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
A/C compressor from the bracket and set it to the side with the lines attached
Camshaft cover
Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E or equivalent, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
Front cover oil seal from the cover
NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
Timing guides and tensioner
Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
The engine coolant temp.sensor and idle air control will usually make the check engine light come on if they go bad.If you have high idling then check for vacuum leaks or sticky throttle.
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The SL is the small 4 door
The SC is the 2 door Sport Coupe
The numbers refer to the engine. The all have a 1.9 liter. "1" is a Single Over Head Cam, 8th VIN will be an "8". "2" is the Dual Over Head Cam, 8th VIN will be a "7"
So a Saturn SL2 with be a 4 door with a DOHC 1.9 liter. SL1 will be a 4 door with a SOHC 1.9 liter. SC2 will be a 2 door with a 1.9 liter DOHC. SC1 will be a 2 door with a 1.9 liter SOHC.
I have a 1997 SOHC (Single Overhead Cam) SL-1 and it is not difficult at all to remove the Valve Cover. There are 2 small "Star" indentations in the top of large round discs - these are actually screws.
Although the screws SHOULD screw out using a star driver - that hardly ever works. Over a period of time the screws "set" pretty solid and are hard to get off - you end up striping out the star head. I removed mine just a few days ago to replace the gasket and what I did was got a pair of PIPE vice grips (The jaws are round instead of flat) you have to carefully lock them onto each of the round disc screws so that the jaws are exactly left and right - the handles of the pliers should be pointing right in the middle of your chest as you're standing in front of the car.
With the pliers locked, very carefully wiggle them back and forth - RIGHT then left - very slowly and the screws will start to move, when they do then you should be able to screw them out with your fingers or at that point use the star driver.
The reply that mentioned the 10 bolts, and the spark plugs in the middle refer to a DOHC (Dual overhead Cam) Since you inquired about a SOHC there should only be the 2 large round "Disc" looking bolts - one to the left and one to the right.
Make sure you get ALL of the old gasket off of the head and cover so the new one will "Seat" good.
If you are replacing a DOHC 1998 engine with another DOHC 1998 engine yes it will work. Saturn only made two engines from 91-99 and they all had the same block, difference some were SOHC and others were DOHC. The number "1" after SL or SC or SW means SOHC while the number "2" after SC or SL or SW means a DOHC.
Note if one is an auto and the other manual you are going to have to swap the flywheel/ring gear stuff over.
The SL2 is a DOHC 1.9L and the SL1 is a SOHC 1.9L. They have different transmissions, the DOHC uses a 15 inch wheel while the SOHC has a 14 inch wheel. So when you are shopping around for another transmission you must get one from the same type of engine. Saturn auto transmissions seem to be problematic, I stuck with the manual trannys and had very good luck.
There isn't much difference between them. The SL series didn't change between 95 and 96 except for the ecm is OBD2 on the 96. Are both cars stick shift? The difference in the SL1 and the SL2 are the cams. 1 for sohc and 2 for dohc. So what you are asking is can I take out my dohc motor and install a sohc motor right?
"Just need to know how to aline...". What? The best advice that I can give you is to get the Haynes repair manual on your vehicle. Anything that will need aligning should be explained in that manual. Good Luck.
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