Whats the best welds to use on reinstalling a core support on a 2000 honda civic i know the old one was spot welded but is it better to mig weld or spot weld the new one

do you have body tools ? cut off wheel die grinder ? small cutoff wheels ? a spot weld cutter drill bit a drill ? a mig welder hammers sheet metal screw and drill bit 1/8"..? a pro will grind all the spot welds out with these mini cutoff wheels it mite be possible to grind through the spot welds around the wheel wheel well area or cut the spot welds with a spotweld cutter drill bit (air drill helpfull) dont grind a hole all the way through the inner support sheet metal when cutting/grinding out spot welds .Once all the welds are grinded or cut out around wheel well then threre is an area behind the bumper (remove it) cut the welds there or a cheat might just cut throgh the sheetmetal behind the bumper okay?. lok at the panel you are installing it is just like what you will be taking off okay ? if you are to weld the pillar high or lower pillar you decide make a measurement leave at least 4 inches tooverlap the new panel to the top ofthe car piller the hatch or trunk area take the rubberseal off the body take th inner panel loose and out put aside .okay ?it may be nessesary to cut the rear rocker panel near the door opening (look at new panel) measure and cut with cutoff wheel just through the panel dont cut deep cut the bottom aarea between the door opening and wheel well area at edge only the top layer door cut all the way into any lower metal sandwiched to the outer panel okay ? the door opening is where you will cut the remaining welds as to dislocate the panel entirely (dont grind through the under metal just the top sheet at welds )okay ?After this you should pry any reamaining parts of the old panel dont bend the pillar when prying panel off look behind the panel any glue ? body rubber cut with knike or putty scrapper" if theres any crosse welds you will have t cut the panel some more leave any truck floor metal alone you will need to hook back to this area . Once all the old panel is cut sometime in 2 or 3 peices you will began to try fit the new panel if the quarter is to be welded into the door opening area it is criticle to postion it perfectly first when you are ready to weld the new panel fasten it in place with sheet metal screws or rivets .Asuming you are a good mig welder you will begin at the top on the piller taking several places about 4 inches apart alow time for panel to col of wip it with a wet cloth to speed cooling .Watch the shape is it deforming bad if so you welding to close together but finish the top weld on the planel first until you have tack weld about 2 inches apart after wards look at the door area is it still centered where you can weld it ? if so good if not well not good . The next area wil be the door inseam tack weld at the top do bout 6 inches of this area then stop look at the hatch/trunck ara is it claped or screwed together ?(you should have drilled little 3/16" holes just where the old weld was dun it is through these holes in the new panel you will weld the new tack welds that attache the new panel to the body under support (structure) if no hole you will make holes before you attach the panel in place understand?)after welding the hatch truck area about half the way go back and finish the door area which is claped and screewed temporarily together last you will weld the wheel and then finally the area behind the bumper and if your welding the bottom to the eld under side the panel as some beginners will use screws on this under area because its the hardest to weld . when the whole area is tacked go back to the piller and weld it solid across and into the hatch or glass ,Speaking of glass they should be removed as wel will damage them the whole top of the car and any glase should be covered with fiberglass weld blanket if yu dont have one get a big cardboard refrigrator box and tape it to car top windowes where weld splatterso beware will burn spots on surface making a lot of damage . Grinde the weld down with die grinder and rotary abrasive wheel or stone . When the weld has been smoother with grinder it will be time to sand nearby pained area subjacent to (next too) areas with 80 grit sandpaper". After that a layer of body filler (bondo) is applied to the areas of the joint/s at the roof piller" and at the rocker panel joints use less hardener on the first coat as you will be doing 2 or three coats building up the layers and extending about 5 inches onto the top of the piller and maybe say 10 inches onto the bottom of the new panel okay when body is hard sand it untill it is smooth filling any low areas and re-sand after bondo filler use 220 grit then 325 grit then 400 grit prime filler and panel with grey primer and tape car sand primer with 500 grit wet and dri and wash paint then paint with same auto paint(color) over lap and polish paint .Reinstall any lights bumper cover and weather strip use come caulk or weld seam sealer to seal any cracks between the metal at the door or hatch /trunk area before painting .Reinstall any glass removed, take tape off add sound deadner" if necessary? reinstall inner panels ect. thats it "your done" clean up your car

you can see if you can get a frame section from the wreckers and replace it or take it to either a welding shop or body shop and have it weld repaired.

You will need a drill, mig welder, small grinder, and tools,(sockets, torx bits, etc.) Remove headlights, grille, bumper, from front. You will then need to remove all the parts connected to the support and upper and lower tie bars if you are replacing them too. You probably will want to completely remove the hood and loosen the fenders. The support is spot welded in so you must drill the welds to loosen the parts. You can use a regular spot weld bit or a 3/8 metal drill bit works well also. If you have never done this it will help if you have the new part so you can see where to seperate everything. After you get the old support off you will need to weld the new part in by welding through the holes you drilled to remove the old one. This is a pretty big undertaking if you are not trained in the field. I am retired from the collision repair profession and if you want to tackle this I will be happy to assist with more details if needed. Good luck.

Most are spot welded into place. The only way to do it is to cut them out, using a grinder to remove the spot welds as best as possible then removing the hinge with a dead blow hammer, or use a metal chisel to help dislodge it the rest of the way

That's really the best way to do. I live in Ohio, and I have often done it that way to patch rust spots.

no but because yours is flanged easy fix get a universal converter gaskets you will need some peices of exhaust take the old unit and the new one to a welding shop have them make you new one the same length as the old one and cut the flanges off the old one and weld to new one all this is probably cheaper than buying a direct fit converter

I used to TUB out cars, 55 to 67 models and we tried many methods when rebuilding the areas you are talking about at first but welding new panels is the best method.

You'll need to get either the exact part cut out of a car just like yours & spot weld it in to place in your car, or just use sheet metal & work it into the shape you need it. (I couldn't find donor vehicles for the ones I rebuilt, so I built everything back from scratch, using hydraulic presses, big hammers & such to make the new metal mimick the original indentations in the floor panels to maintain the strength & structural integrity)

You'll want to use a rust stopper on the newly assembled product once finished & then seal with primer & paint inside & outside.

If you can do the welding, it's easy to transfer pieces one at a time from a donor vehicle & that's the absolute best. Just need a good donor vehicle and a Mig welder. If you weld, if not, invite a friend over for a Saturday of fun!

good luck

Did you replace the rear main seal? This is where it usually leaks transmission fluid. Unles there is a crack on the housing, which can be welded with a mig welder(Gas Metal Arc Welding). Welding aluminum requires the use of a mig welder, and inert gas called argon. The machine itself cost 500 to a few thousand dollars. I have one in my shop just in case I need to weld aluminum.

The 1/4's are spot welded and replacement requires drilling out spot welds, being able to mig weld in new panels, grind, fill, prime, color match, paint, etc. There is a reason body shops get thousands of dollars for this work.

If you need to ask, it may beyond your capabilities.

Hi seanware25 dont know the rules where you are? welded pulleys are not acceptable from a safety standpoint or to pass an inspection, head to the auto wreckers and grab another one, easy fix hope this helps,good luck to you