Burned cable under diode 2 at underhood fuse box

battery voltage box ???? Fuse / relay box ??? underhood / battery junction block ??? There are two fuse boxes under the hood in the engine compartment . one right an one left . One cable from the battery to the right one an one from the right one to the left one .

Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Replacement

Removal Procedure

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.


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2. Disconnect the positive battery cables from the underhood fuse block terminals.
3. Remove the tape from the wiring harness at the base of the underhood fuse block base.


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4. Release the underhood fuse block(s) clip retainers using a small flat-bladed tool.


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5. Remove the fuse block(s) and wiring harness lifting up from the base and reposition from the base.


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6. Remove the nuts from the underhood fuse block base.
7. Remove the underhood fuse block base from the shock tower.


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8. Remove the underhood fuse block lower front terminal positive assurance retainers using a small flat-bladed tool.


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9. Remove the plastic shields from the battery cable and buss bar terminals, using a small flat-bladed tool to release the clip retainer.


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10. Remove the bolts from the buss bar jumper bar.


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11. Remove the buss bar jumper bar from the fuse block(s).


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12. Remove the fuses from the fuse block(s) to access the buss bar terminal release tabs.


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13. Remove the buss bar(s) from the fuse block(s) using a terminal releasing tool, and pulling down and out on the buss bar.


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14. Remove the buss bar(s) from the fuse block(s).


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15. Release the clip retainers from the underhood fuse block(s) battery cable and buss bar terminals using a small flat-bladed tool.


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16. Remove the underhood fuse block(s) battery cable and buss bar terminals from the fuse block by pulling down.
17. Remove the fuse block and lamp wiring harness from the vehicle, if required.

I copied the info from my database, sorry, it is read only, The way I copied it, read only, no pictures.

For many modern computerized cars, there a reset after battery installation. Google for the trick for your particular model and year. Usually mode is to have headlights off, remove battery and wait five minutes before installing the new battery. If the wait is not done, one of the CANs may burn out. On my car, the windows and sun roof need to be opened and closed in a certain sequence. Check to see if the battery is fully charged, starter relay and, any melted insulation on any wires, fusible link okay? Otherwise it sounds like a profession service may be needed, esp. if it's a CAN problem. Test the 2 diodes to see if they are good. If not replace.

The wiring diagram is showing two 60amp maxi fuses coming from the battery post in or under the fuse box. The box is called the underhood accessory wiring junction block so it may only hold 2 or 3 fuses.
The two maxi-fuses power most of whats in the main fuse box.

You could damage the 125A Mega fuse. When using jumper cables, always connect the positive cable directly to the battery and the negative cable to a large unpainted metal surface in the engine compartment.

Use a jumper cable to jump power from the positive terminal of the battery to the AUX terminal in the underhood fuse and relay center box. This will bypass the cable that feeds power to the fuse box from the pos battery terminal. If you have power after that, you probably have a bad cable. Also, check the main 30 amp power fuses in the fuse and relay center under the hood.

Check all fuses under dash &/or underhood. Should be 1 labeled dash or guage. I have seen other fuses blown that affect other circuits so check all fuses.

There are 2 diodes in the underhood fuse box (diodes look like black fuses) one of those diodes is blown, there is a spare diode in the interior fuse panel. Remove that spare and swap it with both of the ones under the hood.

Before disconnecting the positive cable you must disconnect the ground cable first to avoid short circuit that may blow up some of the fuses.

To remove the positive cable you must have a wrench that has a size either a 12 mm or a 10 mm. just turn the wrench counter clockwise.

The other end of the cable will usually go to the starter and the alternator.

hope this one helps...

The rear defogger is fuse #14 (40 Amp fuse) in the underhood fuse box,no other fuses, I have the owners manual. If the fuse checks good test the heater grid of the rear defogger, it is most likely is an open circuit, it can be repaired by the dealer or u..