Miss on # 5 cylinder have performed comprestion

Did you change the spark plug? Do that first or swap plugs with number 3 and see if the miss moves if not it's time for you to perform a Compression Test and Leak Down test to see if it's a bad valve or piston rings. I hope this helps, Take Care.

Worn Valves
Vacuum Leaks -intake or exhaust before the converter
Injectors-Leaking
Timing belt -issue
Worn & blocked exhaust converter
Fuel Pressure
Evap System leaks

Need to road test with scanner & look at data:

Misfires Counts
Fuel Trim
O2 Voltages & switching times

I would say the valves are worn & not sealing,
but would need to see the data & test results from
component testing

Do a cylinder leak down test & confirm no timing issues

You have an "Engine Miss" and even after replacing spark plugs, wires, upper and lower manifold gaskets, and push rods, the Engine Miss still remains. You may want to stop and run a compression test. This test will give you a base line. If one cylinder has low compression, you won't get rid of the miss until that is fixed. Please write back with all the specific information regarding tests, all symptoms (is the engine light on and if so what are the codes?). The more tests that you perform the more you will know and will narrow down your search. All types of things will cause a miss. Take a look at the spark plugs and wires, just because they are new doesn't mean that they are not defective, also check the EGR valve, 02 sensors and exhaust back pressure, clogged filters (fuel&air), defective coil, TPS sensor, PVC valve, or timing. Please let me know if I can help you some more, good luck.

sounds like the only thing left is the valve lash. If the intake gasket was bad, it would most likely cause a vacuum leak and effect the overall performance of the engine. You may also notice some oil consumption as well. Also, verify the firing order is correct.

If you have a code for a miss on one cylinder, it could be the fuel injector instead of the ignition. It could also be a stuck or burnt valve problem.

engine missing could be caused by faulty spark plugs and wires,bad ignition coils,dirty fuel injectors,leaking egr valve,low cylinder compression,intake vacuum leaks.many things will cause engine to miss, first do minor fix,replace distributor cap and rotor,replace spark plugs and wires,clean fuel injectors,replace fuel filter and air filter,if this minor tune up dont help engine and engine still missing, do a vacuum test and compression test to check condition of engine.engine could be worn out have low compression by worn valves and pistons rings.

Compression test , do cylinder leak down test. mechanical problem maybe . How many miles on the engine ? burnt valve

First of all, you'll want to perform what's called a 'LEAK-DOWN' test. The assumption you make (regarding Intake versus exhaust) is irrevelant. Interferrence is BOTH intake and exhaust valve clearances. A leak down or "cylinder leakage" test is similar to a compression test in that it tells you how well your engine's cylinders are sealing. But instead of measuring pressure, it measures pressure loss.
A leak down test requires the removal of all the spark plugs. The crankshaft is then turned so that each piston is at top dead center (both valves closed) when each cylinder is tested. Some people start with cylinder number one and follow the engine's firing order.
A threaded coupling attached to a leakage gauge is screwed into a spark plug hole. Compressed air (80 to 90 psi) is then fed into the cylinder. You don't have to use that much pressure... you can use 30 psi... percentages are the same.
An engine in great condition should generally show only 5 to 10% leakage. An engine that's still in pretty good condition may show up to 20% leakage. But more than 30% leakage indicates trouble.
The neat thing about a leakage test (as opposed to a compression test) is that it's faster and easier to figure out where the pressure is going. If you hear air coming out of the tailpipe, it indicates a leaky exhaust valve. Air coming out of the throttle body or carburetor would point to a leaky intake valve. Air coming out of the breather vent or PCV valve fitting would tell you the rings and/or cylinders are worn.
A leakage test can also be used in conjunction with a compression test to diagnose other kinds of problems.
A cylinder that has poor compression, but minimal leakage, usually has a valvetrain problem such as a worn cam lobe, broken valve spring, collapsed lifter, bent push rod, etc.
If all the cylinders have low compression, but show minimal leakage, the most likely cause is incorrect valve timing. The timing belt or chain may be off a notch or two.
If compression is good and leakage is minimal, but a cylinder is misfiring or shows up weak in a power balance test, it usually indicates a fuel delivery (bad injector) or ignition problem (fouled spark plug or bad plug wire). These are not ABSOLUTE conclusions -- each assumption must be VERIFIED before concluding anything. You mentioned "the lifters seem to be collapsed."... Did you VERIFY this? Since you KNOW the engine is OUT - OF - TIME because you KNOW the timing belt has SLIPPED, then you know you must PUT IT BACK IN TIME... right?...before you can continue diagnosis.... right? Otherwise, what are you MEASURING?

buy a spark plug test light at the auto parts store costs 5 to 10 bucks put the plug tester on eash wire then startthe car up and watch the light if it hasa constan arc then it's fine move to the next plug wire and do this proceedure till you find one with an intermant spark if you find one follow that wire to that coil pack and that would be the coil to replace. Note A bad valve or sticking valve can casue this to also a bad fuel injector or rings and last but not least an intake leak on the cylinder. Please rate if this was helpful.

I assume this 'complete' tune up was plugs, wires and plennum (intake surge tank) gasket?
If so, recommend you first check to see if you are getting an injector pulse to the #3 injector (a noid light is normally used to verify the injector is receiving the 'pulse' from the ECM. The noid light is a very useful tool in finding out if you have problems with your fuel injector. It is cheap (around 10 dollars per piece), easy to use (if the light blinks, your injector is receiving the electrical pulse to open). If after you verify the injector pulse is present, the next step is to determine if the injector or cylinder is the problem. A simple verification process requires swapping the #3 injector with another to see if the misfire moves to the swapped cylinder.(.i.e, move #3 injector to #2 cylinder & the #2 injector to #3 cylinder.).. Then run engine to see if the P0303 changes to P0302. This would VERIFY the injector is in some way defective. If the misfire STAYS at #3 cylinder, you'll want to perform a compression test of all the cylinders. If after this test you find #3 cylinder is more than 10% lower than all the other cylinders, do a 'Leak-Down' test to determine if the low compression is due to leaky valves (intake or exhaust) or whether the piston/rings are the problem. NOTE: If all the cylinders are withing 10% of each other during the compression test, the possible causes are, injector O-ring leak, vacuum leak at the intake manifold at #3 cylinder, or the spark plug not firing under compression.