Abs light is on

Locate and pull the ABS pump fuse located in the power distribution center under the hood and CHECK IT TO SEE IF THE FUSE IS BAD. Basically you are looking for a fuse box with large amperage fuses and some relays. Look along the fender well in the engine compartment relatively close to the battery. It is a 60 amp fuse in most instances and should be clearly labeled "ABS" in the large fuse box with other similarly oversize fuses used for other high power subsystems. 
 All ABS systems are designed so that the solenoid valves in the ABS brake manifold are in safety "bypass" mode when powered down or when the ABS control module has been removed. You will have standard everyday power brakes no different than brakes built without the ABS system.

The ABS system will perform a self check once you exceed 5 MPH and the "ABS" and "brake" lamps should turn off. During this test, the controller runs the pump motor and briefly operates all of the valves. This ABS "self-test" is performed every time you start and drive.

EBCM is short for "Electronic Brake Control Module" It is the advanced computer than controls the electric motor pump and valves of your ABS system.  Burnout of the motor is very rare however. A MOSFET transistor in the EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) has failed, can cause the pump not to perform.

Pump motors generally do not fail, but when they do, the culprit is usually worn-out brushes or corroded electrical connections. In a worst-case scenario, your motor is beyond repair. It is bolted directly to the hydraulic assembly- a cast aluminum brake fluid distribution hub with 5 or 6 brake lines branching off of it and wiring harness.

I hope this helps before you get your hands to dirty. In short check all the electrical connections first. Try running a hot wire to the pump motor first to see if it runs and if it does, then it's not the motor and could be a easier fix by changing the (EBCM).