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Posted on Mar 31, 2009
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Changing timing belt on 1987 toyota celica...i am having trouble removing the bolt on the pulley...what am i doing wrong??? Is it a reverse thread? is their a pin or lock washer?

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  • Toyota Master 6,982 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 31, 2009
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That bolt is on very tight not reverse etc, just tight. Most shops use an air gun to remove it. If your engine turns clockwise (when you are facing pulley), sometimes you can use a solid breaker bar (not one with a flex head...it will snap) and an impact socket braced against an immovable part of the chassis, install bb& socket then "bump" the ign key. The crank will turn but if braced properly, the bolt wont, but will loosen up. (take great care doing this...if bar & socket come loose they may fly up and injure you or some important engine part). I use this method a lot but you have to know it's not in any book!!!

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  • Contributor 5 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 24, 2009
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Go buy a $10 chain wrench. Put it on the grooved pulley (it will not damage the pulley). Place socket on bolt and use a breakover bar with a cheater pipe on the breaker bar. Don't worry about breaking the socket if it's a craftsman as they will replace it for free if it breaks. With all sockets no matter the manufacturer, be prepared for breakage. Careful now, but it works.

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tip

2004 Pilot timing belt replacement


(for the 105,000 mile timing belt service)

Part List :
-Timing belt: 14400-P8A-A02
-Adjuster automatic (hydraulic tensioner): 14520-P8E-A01
-Adjuster - timing belt: 14510-PGE-A01
-Idler pulley - timing belt: 14550-P8A-A01 (OR) 14550-PGE-A01 (there are 2 numbers listed)
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-O-RING (8.8X1.9): 91302-GE0-000
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Special Tools Needed:
Honda Crankshaft Pulley Removal Tool
3/4" breaker bar

Procedure:
-Remove tire and place the Pilot on a jack stand.

-Remove the clips holding the fender liner and lower splash shield in place (x7) and fold them out of the way.

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-Remove the Alternator-Compressor belt (14mm boxend) & Power Steering belt. (2-12mm and 1-12mm tensioner bolt)

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-Remove the side engine mount bracket (5-14mm bolts).

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-Remove the oil dipstick & tube (10mm).

-Remove the front & rear 'upper covers' of the timing belt housing, moving the wire harness out of the way first (5-10mm bolts for each cover).

-Remove the lower cover (7-10mm bolts).

-Remove the engine mount bracket that is bolted to the block (3-14mm bolts).

-Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2-10mm bolts).

-Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleave) (14mm bolt).

-Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) (I used Loctite 242 during the reinstall because I had it on the shelf).

-Remove the timing belt.

-Before installing a new timing belt, make sure the pulleys, belt guide plate, upper & lower covers are clean and check to see if the crank and cams have rotated (mine did not move).

-The install is the reverse order of removal (make sure you torque everything correctly!)

-The removal of the lock pin in the hydraulic tensioner gave me a little trouble so I used pliers.

-Once the crank pulley is back on, check the lower timing mark (and the cam marks) before the top covers are installed.
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