4 cyl Engine starts and idles ok...give it throttle and it dies

This is complex to diagnose. Here are possibilities:

Here are some possible causes and solutions:

Fuel pump relay: A faulty fuel pump relay can cause the fuel pump to stop working intermittently, which can cause the engine to stall. You can check the fuel pump relay by swapping it with another relay of the same type in the fuse box. If the problem goes away, then the relay was the issue. If not, then you can move on to the next possible cause.

Clogged fuel filter: A clogged fuel filter can restrict the flow of fuel to the engine, which can cause the engine to stall. You can check the fuel filter by removing it and blowing air through it. If there is no resistance, then the filter is not clogged. If there is resistance, then you should replace the filter.

Vacuum leak: A vacuum leak can cause the engine to run lean, which can cause the engine to stall. You can check for vacuum leaks by spraying carburetor cleaner around the intake manifold, throttle body, and vacuum lines while the engine is running. If the engine RPMs increase, then there is a vacuum leak.

Faulty idle air control valve: A faulty idle air control valve can cause the engine to stall at idle. You can check the idle air control valve by removing it and cleaning it with carburetor cleaner. If the problem persists, then you should replace the valve.

Faulty throttle position sensor: A faulty throttle position sensor can cause the engine to stall when the throttle is opened. You can check the throttle position sensor by using a multimeter to measure the resistance across the sensor terminals. If the resistance is not within the specified range, then you should replace the sensor.

Faulty mass airflow sensor: A faulty mass airflow sensor can cause the engine to stall when the throttle is opened. You mentioned that you already changed the MAF, but it's possible that the new MAF is also faulty. You can check the MAF by using a multimeter to measure the voltage across the sensor terminals while the engine is running. If the voltage is not within the specified range, then you should replace the sensor.

Faulty ignition coil: A faulty ignition coil can cause the engine to stall when it gets hot. You can check the ignition coil by using a multimeter to measure the resistance across the coil terminals. If the resistance is not within the specified range, then you should replace the coil.

I tried to post 2 hours ago and the site wouldn't let me so this will be in 2-3 parts ok ! (1) please clean out your throttle body with fuel injection cleaner and if your using no name branded fuel stop now this has no detergents in it, and you will find a brown varnish inside the throttle plate ,after doing this also spray around the intake manifold and the egr evap egr sensors and hoses if the rpm's change you found a leak next post in comments

Any codes?

Is it carved or efi??If efi do this::locate your throttle body,pull the air intake hose loose from the throttle body,spray starting fluid or carb cleaner into the throttle body opening, push the hose back onto the throttle body then try to start the car.If it starts & runs for a few seconds then dies,you've got a No Fuel problem.If it doesn't start at all,you've got a No Spark problem.If its a no fuel issue,turn the key on & listen for the fuel pump priming sound.If you don't hear it,check for a blown fuel pump fuse,defective fuel pump relay,a defective computer power relay or a tripped inertia switch.If they're OK,disconnect the harness at the fuel pump,turn the key on and use a voltmeter to test for battery voltage.If voltage is present,the pump is bad.If voltage isn't present,but its present at the fuel pump relay harness, there's most likely a short/open in the wiring harness between the FP relay & pump.You didn't list your vehicle info,so I'm unsure of which type ignition you've got.
Most no starts on a new engine are caused by a ground wire you forgot to connect,wiring harness not plugged in or a timing issue.

Does the car throw a check engine code? If so, what is that code?

This could also possibly be the ignition. My V70 had a bit of trouble on a couple of cold mornings. I replaced the ignition switch (located in the steering column on the opposite side of the key hole).

Also check the fuel pressure and fuel filter. Could be a pump and filter problem. Fuel condenses at lower temperatures and if the pump is having issue pushing the thicker fuel through the filter, take a look at that to be an issue.

Lastly, check the throttle and the fuel injectors. Run fuel system and injector cleaner like HEAT through the fuel tank to see if it helps.

Error Code: B2799
Description: Engine immobilizer system malfunction
The engine ECU is not synchronized to the engine immobilizer. To solve the problem perform the procedure describes as under:
- Open the driver's door, all other doors closed.
- Switch off all loads like room light, blower, parking lights, and radio.
- Make sure the car battery is fully charged.
- On driver's side under the dash find a D-Shaped white or black colored 16-pin (row of 8 pins in above row and 8 pins in the lower row) data link connector (DLC). DLC has upper side broader and lower side narrower.
- The upper left most pin on the broader side is pin 1, next to the right side is pin 2, 3, 4...8. The left most pin on the narrower side is pin 9. Next is 10.....16.
- Now connect pin 4 and 13 together with the help of a paper clip or auto wire, bared at both ends.
- Insert the key, switch ON the ignition and keep it ON for 30 minutes.
- Keep the driver's door open during the entire procedure.
- After 30 min, Switch OFF the ignition and take the key out.
- Remove the jumper wire and start the car.
Good Luck.

As with any no-start or stall problem you will need to figure out if it is a fuel or ignition issue.
The high idle usually means you have a vac leak or a problem with the throttle body or idle air control valve. The control valve is how the computer controls the idle speed.
You'll need to watch the fuel system and spark to see which is being affected when the engine dies.
You might want to hook a test light up to the coil to see if it is loosing voltage for example.

The igniter interprets signals of time and position from the distributor, fits the efi ecu with information and then the ecu gets back to igniter to tell it when to fire specific cylinder, we used to have problems with the distributors and also igniters.

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Make sure you check the 3" intake hose from the air box to the intake manifold. May be cracked.

EGR Valve