Front calipers are still dragging and running hot even after replacing the vacuum booster master cyl. brake hoses combination valve and calipers. I greased the runners flushed the system numerous times bled the system from the RWAL valve combination valve and all brake cyls. in the correct sequence. Recently when pedal bleeding I noticed two things: 1. when bleeding the rear brakes the front calipers lock-up tight a lot of air comes out but it seems never ending. 2. When my assistant gradually moves her foot of the pedal there's a point at which the calipers release and the rotors spin,but after the pedal is completely released the calipers completely lock up again.Maybe some body can make sense of this.I can't. thank you for your most urgent help.
What is the year ,make and model.? does it have abs brakes
SOURCE: brake lock-up
I suspect that you have front disc and rear drum brakes.You did not say which of your brakes are locking up. I suggest that if your front brakes are locking {skid} that means your rear brakes are not engaging. If your rear brakes are locking {skid} then I suggest you have problems with park brake or brake fluid leaking onto the rear shoes.
More info would help me help you. I will check back soon.
SOURCE: 1986 gmc sierra 1500 front rt brake locks up
check brake lines they may have gotten pinched very commonok new c/k trucks when you crank the torsion bars up to far you may have hit something and pinched the brake line check those before messing with the master cylinder those are a real pain
SOURCE: Fiat Uno Pacer - Brake Booster not assist braking
it could be that the master cylinder is bad or the brake booster is bad also check the vacum hose going to the brake booster if it has a hole in it it will lose pressure and make the engine lose rpms
SOURCE: 1999 Chevy Tahoe- Soft Brake Pedal
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
SOURCE: stuck calipers
Brake lines are not releasing fluid back to master cylinder. Open bleeder and see if wheel will turn. If it does replace brake line to caliper
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