97 grand prix progressive prob./ it had been dropping the rpm gauge write to 0 in mid speed after 5 miles, could turn key off then on and start working again, then car would stall ocassionally, I could recrank and go,then got to were it was getting harder to restart,then just hard to start, now pior to and after replacing tp sensor still wont start or fire, did get it to run for a few seconds by trying the key thing were you turn it back to acc then off then pull key 1/4 out back in then start. HELP plz
Have you checked the fuel pressure. maybe a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump
Testimonial: "I have to test that yet, but I had codes come up that tp sensor was prob,have let it sit over winter after probs continued. when I do get it started it runs exactly 2 min then shuts down, but have not been able to get any codes to come up. (all had been cleared when tp was installed "
have to test that yet, but I had codes come up that tp sensor was prob,have let it sit over winter after probs continued. when I do get it started it runs exactly 2 min then shuts down, but have not been able to get any codes to come up. (all had been cleared when tp was installed ,new to this site i think i posted in wrong spot
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SOURCE: 1994 Honda Civic Si...fuel pump, filter, or fuse...computer maybe..
had the same thing- fuel pump is defective
SOURCE: High RPM After Crank Shaft Sensor Replaced
Dear Mike: Nissan has a Technical service bulletin out on problems with high idle.
Reference # NTB05-067 This procedure unfortunately, is one which will take a skilled professional with the proper equipment.
The Nissan Dealer has a diagnostic tool called a "CONSULT-11"
and shops like mine that spend the money on the equipment and software AND TRAINING>>>> can more efficiently address the problem. Even if the shop has a higher labor rate, it may be less expensive to solve the problem if they know what they are doing.
I often get calls from people wanting to know how much my shop charges per hour for diagnostics? I try to get across to them that the hourly rate doesn't always guarantee that they will get a less expensive repair. Then I give them an example: The shop ABC Auto repair down the street charges $10.00 an hour for diagnostics and Shop XYZ charges $100. for diagnostics. Shop ABC has kids who have difficulty figuring out where the hood latch is let alone how to solve the problem. It takes them 10 hours to eventually solve the problem which relates to $100.00. Shop XYZ assigns the car to a seasoned tech who knows the product and has the problem solved in 1/2 hour. Ever though shop XYZ is 10 times more expensive on their diagnostic rate, they were 50% cheaper on their repair! (SORRY TO WANDER OFF THE PATH )
In any case, this is one situation that I feel is best left to a seasoned pro who will take the time to check the technical service bulletins which the shop you had it at should have researched from the start. Had they done that, they could have told you that there were quite a few TSB's out on your car pertaining to performance and safety issues including voluntary recalls. We always check TSB's and if there is a recall & we advise the customer of it. I could take advantage of the customer and make the money on the repair, but would rather gain the trust, confidence and loyalty of that customer. Not to mention the word of mouth it brings!
I hope I have helped you some. If not, let me know a little more detail on the symptoms: Does it surge, while driving does it do it under all conditions or only at operating temp? You get the picture.
this sounds similar to a problem i had.
as the rpm went over 2000 the engine would stop for a split second and then kick back in.
after a few days looking my garage finally found the problem was a faulty air mass meter.
this cost me £200 in total to be repaired.
SOURCE: 97' Pontiac Gran Prix Won't Stay running
Known GTP problem.
You most likely have a bad fuel pump resistor, which controls 2 speeds of the fuel pump.
To check to see if this is the problem, there is a trick you can do and its very easy to do. Go to the attached link, and bend the tab my finger is pointing at and then plug it back in. If your car starts and runs fine, well we just solved the problem.
Link ->> http://www.boredandstupid.com/relay.jpg
SOURCE: 97 dodge ram no spark
then i would replace whats called the hall effect sensor its that black plastic plate you see when you take dist cap off. just pull rotor and lift up the sensor.dist cap is what holds it on.also under the sensor will be a stamped sheet metal piece that looks like the top of a castle wall. make sure its not loose on the shaft.if it is then new dist will be needed
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