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You may have front brake rotors which are slightly warped. The ABS only comes into play under very hard brakeing conditions. Typically you may also feel a slight pulse in the brake pedal as you slow down.That would be my best guess.If you have a vibration when you are stopped, that may be a motor mount issue. Either the front and/or rear mount may be weak.They are designed to isolate small engine vibrations you might feel when the car is at a stand still The motor mounts are designed to isolate small engine vibrations at a stand still at idle as well as limit the amount of travel the engine can make under a load. As a car gets older, the rubber which is what the mounts are made of get harder and often collapse slightly and can cause your condition because they are no longer plyable.Maybe this might shed some light on your problem. Good luck.
I suggest having the steering and front suspension systems checked, including: ball joints, tie rod ends, steering dampener (if equipped), upper and lower control arm bushings, hub bearings. I would also have the U-joints and motor mounts inspected in the process.
By changing the suspected drivetrain components you've eliminated the drivetrain from suspicion, leaving just the suspension, steering, and tires. Visually inspect upper and lower ball joints, springs, shocks (for leakage) - (suspension & steering) Check tires - unusual wear pattern on one tire tells you which wheel well has problems in it. The sneaky experienced mechanic way - park the truck on a level surface, then run a tape measure to the top of each wheel well from the ground up - compare front-to-front and back-to-back - those that are significantly lower than their mate are suspect.
does the vibration stop when not under load, (coasting) Possible front axle shaft or hub bearing. hows the tire condition,no shifted belts or odd shape? notice balance weights missing? Is this a auto or manual, If manual do you feel more vibe in pedal or wheel? Jack front of car, assuming front wheel drive? Brace care with jack stands, block rear wheels, put car in nuetral, rotate front tires in both directions,each side, and listen,feel, look at all moving parts. also move tires in and out at the nine and three o clock position,(as if the tire was turning right and left) help is great while doing this as it allows you to be under car and visually inspect steering components,tie rod ends and inners. grab tire at six and twelve o clock and try to wiggle back and forth, grab a 2x4 and put under each tire and have helper pry up and down. you will be checking for upper ball joint slop. this should give you a good idea of what the problem is. Hows the motor mounts?
the steering wheel shaking at an idle is a whole seperate thing. if it shakes while idling i would say its a bad motor mount (or mounts)
If the rubber breaks or wears out in the center of the mount that the engine bracket bolts to, then the center of it lays closer to the metal outer shell of the mount from the weight of the engine. The outer shell is bolted directly to the frame so it resonates vibration through the frame and body instead of 'floating' in the center of a rubber cushion. Once your accelerating the engine rotates up in the mount lifting the center off of the shell so the vibration goes away.
Sound more like out of balance tires, or bent wheel. Unless this vibration is even in park. Then I would say something is up against a part of the steering that shouldn't be.. Or your exhaust system is bent or touching part of the undercarriage that it shouldn't be. Was the car ever wrecked?