Hello I recently purchased an 1994 Audi500E, two mornings ago, after depressing brake pedal, OK light signal came on as usual, the oil light came on, i then topped up at nearest gargage, however on my way back from work yesterday, car jerked a bit, stalled at robot, switched back on, after about 5km's, same thing, this time pulled over, waited for 5 minutes before driving again, this morning red oil light indicator came on again, however no stalling / switching off problems - please help
This could be a low oil pressure problem or a failing oil pressure sending unit (sensor). It could even be diluted engine oil. If it has been a while since the engine oil was changed, then change the oil and filter. If you still have the problem, then perform an oil pressure test and measure the actual oil pressure. It should not drop lower than 7 PSI at idle with a warm engine. If it does, then there is an internal problem with the engine like failing oil pump or worn bearings. If the oil pressure tests ok, then have the oil pressure sending unit replaced.
SOURCE: Car Stalls Randomly
when you say car does not start what do you mean does it crank atleast, now the switch they replaced is just a neutral safety switch has nothing to do with our problem to me it sounds like that the crank sensor is going bad in this car
SOURCE: stalling at lights
This is most common with Gm cars your torque converter switch is sticking.and keeping your torque converter applied . you can unplug the converter and try it.its a square plug on the front of your transmission.just unplug it and drive the car it turns the torque converter off. but you should have it repaired for it may cause your check engine light to come on phil
SOURCE: 1996 JGC stalls and won't start for a few minutes
Security system is "anti theft system...If you have one, you must be aware of it. If you read other posts, you will see that a large number of no-start or strange problems generally end up being related to malfunctions related to that. In order to diagnose these systems which are basically small computer based modules, one can either guess and possibly find a problem such a loose connection or whatnot, or computer based systems testing can be done. I would suggest that you check body grounds for good clean connections and do a wiggle test on harnesses to see if you can isolate a particular wire or connector that needs attention.Some larger parts stores do free code tests. This may help to determine if any vital ignition or fuel systems are showing faults. Security systems are not the only thing that can cause a problem, just the most common. You may find an item such as the crankshaft sensor which is generating a code. Turning the key may have little to do with the problem but is just taking up time necessary for the sensor to cool down. These items are not user friendly, so other than those basic items, there isn't much you can really do without any training.I hope my answer isn't too complex but the systems are complex as is diagnosis.
SOURCE: 325i BMW, 2003 (Automatic) Fuel Pump/Filter or
your camshaft position sensor may be going bad. usually with an old car it tend to go bad. The top of sensor can be covered or gumed up with grease, oil, dirt and cause it not to detect the flywheel turning. Camshaft sensor send single to your DME to deliver fuel and sparks to you engine. If camshaft sensor goes bad it will seem like your fuel pump and ignition coil is bad even-though they are good. Faulty camshaft sensor may caused you to have this issue and problems such as sometime it run good and all of sudden it shut off, sometime its start good and others time is doesn't start. Once the sensor goes bad, the car will not run. There are two Sensor one for the fuel and one for the sparks, I would replace both sensor because soon or later if it will go bad, it will leave you stranded although if you replace one you might as well replace the other. Check the coil and test using the light or volts tester to see you getting power to the coil, next check if your fuel pump is working, fuel pump will not stay running unless the sensor sense the flywheel is turning from your camshaft sensor. next time when your car does not start, check if you getting spark and fuel. Both sensor will cost you around 130 bucks. assuming your DME, fuel pump, coil, wires, etc... is working. keep me update and I will try to walk you through. btw stop by at any auto part store and pick yourself up Haynes auto repair book for your car, its a great tools and investment to have for your next repair work if you plan to keep your car and get to know the heart of it. good luck and i hope that help some.
SOURCE: bmw 325i 2003 stall
Sounds like you have a small bit of dirt or grit in the fuel system when accelerating it is drawn with enough force to cut off the fuel supply then is released when engine at Idle.
1 run liquid fuel line/injector cleaner in 1 tank
2 check fuel lines for debris
3 change fuel filters
4 have fuel tank flushed
here is trouble shooting order less expense to greater.
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