Question about 2004 Honda Accord
I changed the fuse (#8 on the fuse - 20amps) but the power locks does not work. I called the Honda dealer and they told me it is not covered under warranty, and I know they will charge me about $700 to get it fixed. I am wondering if I have a better option to get it fixed appropriately.
The under-dash fuse relay box also contains 10A FUSE 7 and 7.5A FUSE 21. Either or both could be open.
Posted on Nov 18, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 04 accord lx trans stuck
Your ECU or TCU might be going bad Electronic control unit or Transmission control unit.
Have the car looked at for free at autozone..just in case their computer can pick up any computer problems
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
SOURCE: 2004 Honda Accord Euro. Central
I am a mechanic and had the same problem with a 2005 Acord that I purchased couple of months ago. Contact through the trade provided little help. The problem arose during a week that we in Adelaide, South Australia had a record o 40+ degrees centigrade heat. I noticed the drop knob slightly moving when the immobiliser was activated, but the drivers door failed to lock. Key locking would lock all doors however.
The cost of a door actuator from a Honda dealer was $185.00 (Aus), about $250 (US). The spare parts guy told me they had them in stock and sold a number of them. As a result I decided to find out whether the actuator was in fact faulty. I susequently removed the door lock and actuator assembly from the door. (A fiddly type job). The actuator assembly is in a plastic sealed assembly. By using a lot of patience and a box cutter I was able to cut around the assembly and then carefully lever the plastic housing apart. This revealled the small electric motor (similar to a slot car motor) that drove a worm and wheel assembly and a system of cams that actuated the door lock system. I found on dismantling the electric motor that the armature was coated with grease from the wormwheel /cam assembly that is mounted above the motor when installed in the vehicle. I cleaned the armature and brushes using superfine wet and dry carborundum paper, undercut and cleaned out the two armature segments of all remaining grease with a solvent. The motor was then tested with 12 volts and found to be ok. I then reinstalled the motor and glued the housing back together. It now works fine. I believe the housing was either initially overfilled with lubricant or that the high ambient temperature caused the grease to melt and flow into the elecric motor contaminating the motor. (There is no seal between the gearbox and the electric motor). The job took a few hours from start to finish but I saved the cost of purchasing the part and didn't let it beat me.
Cheers and beers
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
I promise this works 'cause I used it:
Put the key in the ignition, move the intermittent wiper control to the middle possition and then turn the key on.
just to clarify it's the ring that controlls the intermittent wiper speed and not the int / low/ high switch.
What this does is it resets the multiplex unit that controlls the accessories such as the power door locks. This problem usually happens once the battery has been removed or disconnected and reconnected. Every once in a while the multiplex systems lock up. Especially on the 98s. That's how you wake em up.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
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