Question about 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Hi Jonny, While the engine is cold the thermostat will be closed, allowing coolant circulation around the engine block and cylinder head but not through the radiator. Only when the engine has reached normal operating temperature will circulation be noted in the radiator. A good test is to remove the thermostat while the engine is cold , start the engine with the radiator pressure cap removed and observe flow. If as I suspect it is there, refit the thermostat and check the heat gauge. If all remains well there is no problem. If the engine overheats replace another thermostat. If there is no circulation with the thermostat removed, there is a blockage in the cooling galleries of the engine. If chemical flushing does not clear it, it will require disassembly of the engine with careful step by step inspection at every stage. If the cylinder head(s) had been removed I would suggest making sure of the galleries not being blocked by installing the gaskets incorrectly. Regards John
Posted on Apr 21, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Since your blower is working and it is a heat issue,thats where we'll
start,First thing is have you checked the coolant level in the radiator when
engine is cold,make sure it is filled to top,next verify you have coolant in
reserve ,Start your van and get it up to normal operation temperature,If your
heat gauge on the dash works correctly it should be 190 degrees,Now lift the
hood and locate the two heater hoses going into the heater assembly at the fire
wall,Both hoses should be hot to hold on to,if both are hot and no heat inside
your problem will be the blend air door in heater assembly.
if neither hose is that hot you need to replace the thermostat in the engine to get it up to 195 degrees.
if one hose is hot and one is luke warm then the heater core is blocked and to blame. hope this helps you.
Posted on Jan 12, 2010
SOURCE: 1993 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 4.0
did you check rad 4 leaks and make sure all aluminum mesh is intaced beetween cores i had a jeep do same thing or could possibly have air pocket let run with cap off while circulating through block check fluid level add if nessisary also they sell a very good product called water wetter its a synthetic helps fluid flow freer good luck
Posted on May 13, 2009
If you haven't changed the plugs or had the fuel system cleaned, now would be a good time to do it. The number 1 culprit for rough idles is dirty injectors or plugs. You can try an injector cleaner in a can (or bottle) for under $10 and see if it helps, and then work from there. If there isn't any improvement then if you are able to, check the plugs for any gunky buildup and if you find a bad plug, make sure you replace them all (or have them replaced) at the same time.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
SOURCE: how to replace radiator
Do not remove the cylinder block drain plugs or loosen the radiator drain **** with the system hot and under pressure. Serious burns from coolant can occur.
WARNING When removing the radiator or A/C condenser for any reason, note the location of all radiator- to-body and radiator-to-A/C condenser rubber air seals. These are used at the top, bottom and sides of the radiator and A/C condenser. To prevent overheating, these seals must be installed to their original positions.
Removal & Installation:
For more details I suggest review the Service Repair Manual:
- Section-07-Cooling-System-Ewj7 (page 33 and next)
I really hope helped with this (remember rated and comment this help) Good luck.
Posted on Nov 13, 2009
Most serious item I see is oil pressure. Put a mechanical gauge on the engine and get an accurate reading. Also make sure that the passage to the sender isn't blocked. If you did the pump yourself, did you find any coolant in the oil? In 99% of all low oil pressure situations, the oil pump has not failed. Rather, either a cam bearing or crank/rod bearing is worn. You do not have to have one spun or completely worn out bearing. Even wear of all bearings that is somewhat excessive can bleed off enough pressure to cause problems (plastigage the engine bearings to determine wear).
As far as coolant loss. A cylinder head gasket can fail between cylinders, into a water passage, into an oil passage or any combination of those and externally as well. The cylinder heads on engines beginning in about '98 are prone to "micro-cracking" which can lead to all kinds of hard to diagnose coolant loss problems. It may help if you have a shop do a dye test and a hydrocarbon test on the cooling system and see what they find.
I have seen several kinds of block sealing systems available. Though I generally do not recommend them, as the longevity of the repair isn't predictable, you could try that as a option of last resort.
There is no quick easy solution to your problem but with a bit of "poking around" you may be able to cure it. Don't bother repairing one problem before finding out what the other one is first though as together, it might be smarter to replace the engine.
Posted on May 09, 2010
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