At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
Make sure your battery is fully charged and check all battery cables . Make sure the connections are clean and tight.if the starter clicks the starter solenoid switch could be at fault. Could be a bad starter its self. If its internal your ring gear in the engine could have teeth missing causing the starter to just spin.
These are just ideas.
Spray ether into the air intake and see if it still takes 5 or 6 cranks...if it starts immediately, it is fuel related, perhaps fuel presure regulator is bad. If the ether doesn't change anything...it is most likely a cam sensor...good luck!
by the sounds of it the soilanoid is not sending the bendx out to engage the flywheel. try tapping on the starter and then try starting the car if it fires up it might by you a day or a week but you wll have to replace the starter.if it doesn't work then chances are you will have to replace it now. the long and the short of it you will problly have to replace the starter.
It is a chain and its not the easiest but it could be worse.It is as follows: 1.9L SOHC Engine
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Right front wheel and splash shield
NOTE: Place a 1 in. x 1 in. x 2 in. long block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
A/C compressor from the bracket and set aside with the lines attached
Camshaft cover
Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
Front cover oil seal from the cover
NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past Top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
Remove or disconnect the following:
Timing guides and tensioner
Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
Crankshaft sprocket
To install:
Inspect the chain for wear and damage. Check the inside diameter of the chain, it should be no more than 16.77 in. (426mm). Inspect the chain guides for wear or cracks and the timing sprockets for teeth or key wear. Replace components as necessary.
Verify that the crankshaft keyway is positioned 90 degrees clockwise past TDC (keyway at 3 o'clock). The keyway should align with the split between the bearing cap and engine block.
Bring the camshaft up to No. 1 TDC by loosely installing the sprocket and rotating the sprocket until the timing pin can be inserted. The camshaft contains wrench flats to assist in turning the shaft. The dowel pin should be at 12 o'clock when the camshaft is at TDC.
Install the crankshaft sprocket, then rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 90 degrees up to No. 1 TDC (keyway at 12 o'clock).
Position the chain under the crankshaft sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket. The timing chain should be positioned so that 1 silver link plate aligns with the reference mark on the camshaft sprocket and the other aligns with the downward tooth (at the 6 o'clock position) on the crankshaft sprocket. The letters FRT on the camshaft sprocket must face forward, away from the cylinder head and excess chain slack should be located on the tensioner side of the block.
Install or connect the following:
Timing pin to verify proper alignment of the camshaft and sprocket. Torque the sprocket bolt to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
NOTE: Do not allow the camshaft retaining bolt to torque against the timing pin or cylinder head damage will result.
Timing chain guides with the words FRONT facing out. Install the fixed guide first and verify the chain is snug against the guide, then install the pivot guide. Torque the bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) and verify that the pivot guide moves freely
Retract the tensioner plunger and pin the ratchet lever using a 1⁄8 in. No. 31 drill bit inserted in the alignment hole at the bottom front of the component
Tensioner. Torque the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm), then remove the drill bit
Make one final check to verify all components are properly timed, then remove all timing pins.
Install or connect the following:
Seat a new front cover oil seal using the installation tool with a press
If the engine front cover casting or assembly is replaced, the 3 torque axis mount studs should also be replaced. Torque the new studs to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Right front wheel and splash shield
NOTE: Place a 1 x 1 x 2 in. (25 x 25 x 51mm) block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
A/C compressor from the bracket and set it to the side with the lines attached
Camshaft cover
Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E or equivalent, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
Front cover oil seal from the cover
NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
Timing guides and tensioner
Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
the starter is on the back side of the engine (firewall side) just under the intake manifold. It is accessible from under the car if it needs to be replaced.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You still have a problem with your starter. Sounds like you missed the wires going to the solenoid which engages the bendix.
Recheck the wiring.
It could also be a bad starter from the parts store. Won't be the first time.
See if this helps -
If you go to start the car and you get a spinning sound then your starter is not engaging. If you get a clicking sound then it could still be the starter but you will need to check that the battery if fully charged first. If you still need to be confident it is your starter then you need to remove it and take it into an auto parts store. They will check it for you free of charge to see if it is still good or not.
Hi Vernon, There could be a number of different reasons why your vehicle is failing to start. The battery voltage could be dropping during start and become unable to engage the starter motor to turn the engine. You can check this by trying the key with the head lights switched on. If the lights become very dim, you'll need to check the battery, meaning clean the terminals and then try to start with a jump from another battery. If you achieve start up and it fails again the following morning, you will probably need to replace the battery. There could be a problem with the starter relay or a loose contact for the starter motor, most lik3ely the one connecting to the soliniod. It would be good to know some additional information, such as does a clicking sound come from the starter when engaged? Is there a perceptible drop in voltage output when the starter is engaged? does the enine turn at all? Try what I've suggested and if that does not solve the problem answer the questions and let me know anything else which you may think is relevant. Regards John
why did you replace the battery and the starter?.i would say you have a problem like something running your battery down,get this saturn put onto a computer and it will tell you right away what the problem is.adrian,,,,,,,,,,,
by the sounds of it the soilanoid is not sending the bendx out to engage the flywheel. try tapping on the starter and then try starting the car if it fires up it might by you a day or a week but you wll have to replace the starter.if it doesn't work then chances are you will have to replace it now. the long and the short of it you will problly have to replace the starter.
The starter on my 2001 SL1 was easy to get to, and remove. I would pull it and take it to a parts house to have it tested. It is possible the brushes are sticking.
×