So I just replaced all the timing chains, cassettes, and tensioners. It cranks and tries to start but won't. Sometimes it will begin to run for a couple seconds but when it does it runs very rough and then it stops suddenly and makes a backfire sound through the intake. Any help on what it could be would really help. I also replaced the plugs.
Have you disconnected the battery for more than 5 mins before the trouble started, if so you have to reset the idle value by disconnecting the negative battery cable, put a shop towel between the battery post and cable, run a jumper wire from the negative battery cable to the positive cable ,which is still connected, leave it on there for 5 mins, remove jumper wire, reconnect negative cable to battery, when you start it, turn the key to the on position, wait for some of the lights by the speedometer start to go off, then start it
SOURCE: no power rough idle car stalls strong exhaust smell
have you done a reaaly good tune up on the car? I would suggest replaceing the idle air control valve first, the a really good set of plugs and wires. I would also reccomend that you check the fuel regulator to be certain it is getting the required vacum to operate the release valve and let the fuel flow back into the tank.
SOURCE: runs rough/worse, backfire sputters, smell fuel
make sure all wires are secure on the plugs. Make sure that if you bought the plugs aftermarket, that they are the suggested equipment from the Ford (http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/fordtaurus20002000motorcraftmisp432154315.html Make sure the plugs (gap) were not damaged during installation. Check the firing order is correct. (1,4,2,5,3,6)
SOURCE: 1997 ford explorer 4.0 still runs rough after
It could be many other things. Have you changed the air filter? I could be extremely dirty or it could even be a vacuum leak that is making it run rough. Is there a check engine light on? If so that could help find the problem. If it's not something that simple you would need to start looking to see if all cylinders have the correct compression because it could be a blown head gasket or some other internal engine problems. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks for using FixYa!
Testimonial: "thank you.. and yes the engine light is on and flashs sometimes.. the code read that i had 4 misfires before i changed the plugs and wires & coil "
SOURCE: 1995 ford probe gt 2.5l V6, was running at 45 mph,
OK, and now it looks like coachjoehutc is thinking the same as me. When I look up your car, it takes me to the Mazda Millenia engine--does that sound right? It only shows 2 cam sprockets, but maybe there's a gear in the head to turn the other cam? Anyway, I'm pasting a picture of the marks. There's a little tang coming off the head that marks the timing. Now unfortunately it appears the timing covers are the one-piece type that stretch all the way down (I was hoping there would be a section on the top you could remove to see the gears). I hate for you to have to take the whole front off and find out I'm wrong, so maybe you can just remove the upper cover screws and, if the cover is plastic, it may let you bend it out far enough to see those marks on the gears (????). If so, then rotate the engine to TDC for #1 (there is an ignition timing tab to use for that around the one o'clock position). Look for the marks on the gears--if I'm right, they will only be off the tangs by a tooth (any more and the engine wouldn't run). If you don't see the dots on the gears, you're on the exhaust stroke and need to turn the engine another 360. Is this all making sense? Let me know if you have questions.
If you want to see the instructions to take off the whole covers, I can send them, or maybe you can access them at http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c152802610a5
257 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×