Where can i get the compression fitting on the end of line going into the radiator. made the mistake of trying to take it off without the right tool, and broke it.

No you can't..
Fitting valve stem seals involves removing the valve springs. This means the valve has to be held in place by a valve spring compressor (bought from almost any spares outlet). The springs are compressed by placing one end of the compressor tool on the valve face and the other end over the spring cap, then squeezing the tool to compress the spring, then removing the split collets that hold the spring in place, removing the spring cap and spring, then eventually you have access to the stem seals.
The head has to be removed to accomplish all this.

Let's try and tackle the first problem; the heater. Go ahead and buy a new thermostat just in case because it is only about $12. More than likely, your heating core is clogged up and not letting the Dexcool run through. So what you need to do is flush out the heating core. Disconnect the 'in' and 'out' hoses from the side NOT attached to the firewall. Drain the Dexcool out into a bucket. Once it stops flowing, throw some compressed air into the line (You may need to use a rubber fitting or electrical tape to get a tight seal between the line and the air tool). If there is not too much stuff that comes out, throw a little water into the line and then blow it out with the compressed air again. Note that you want to not stand in front of the end of the line... it will come out quick! Once you have cleaned out the heating core, reconnect the hoses and top off the radiator. You will need to manually pump the radiator hose to circulate the coolant and push out the air.

Happens to me all too often. Are they metal lines with screw-in brass fittings? They won't line up just right? If so, be careful to not cross-thread them. Sometimes you can loosen the fitting at other end of line to get just enough slack to get it right for screwing in at the radiator. Or it might be easier to loosen the radiator mounts, so you could move the radiator to line up with the cooler lines fittings. Good luck, or if you have something different, post back.

Remove the screw from the metal bracket that is holding the fuel filter. It is located right below the battery to the right. To get the quick connect fuel line fittings off. YOU WILL NEED A DISCONNECT TOOL. O'Reillys or Auto Zone should have the tool pack of (6) The small gray one fits the 2001 Sportage. Put the plastic tool under the fuel line fitting and squeeze together. The fuel line will pop off the old filter. To remove the rear fuel line, go under the vehicle and use the tool on the fuel line. There is a rubber hose with 2 quick connect fittings. One end attaches to the filter and the other end attaches to a metal fuel line under vehicle. Remove the fitting that attaches to the metal line since there is no room on the back of filter for the tool to fit. Once you get the whole assembly out of the car.... you can work on getting the fitting off the rear of the old filter. Be very careful not to damage the plastic quick connect fittings! KEEP YOUR FACE CLEAR OF THE FILTER A SMALL AMOUNT OF GAS WILL COME OUT!!!!!

There are special wrenchs that you can use for pipe fittings but they aren't necessarily going to help. Your best bet will be to spray them down good with a penetrating fluid like Moovit or Seafoam Deep Creep. Spray the fittings well and let them sit for a while. Then spray again. After a couple hours, you can try using a wrenh to get them to turn but you will likely have to grab them with a pair of Vice-Grips. Once they start to turn make sure the nut is turning on the steel line as well. If it isn't use a wrench on the nut and the Vice-Grips to hold the line and break it free.
If you aren't having any luck with this, you can cut the lines with a tubing cutter and splice in new ones. These are low pressure lines and can be put back together with compression fittings. Measure the diameter of the lines and down at the auto parts store get a piece of pre-made steel brake line that size. You only need a short piece because you are going to cut it in half. These have a nut on both ends but make sure it is the right size to thread into your rad. If they aren't you can also buy them separate to fit the line and the rad. Also pick up 2 complete compression fittings that will fit the line you bought.
When you are ready to re-install the trans lines just measure the distance from the old line to the rad and cut one end off the brake line to that length and thread it loosely into the rad. Slide the compression nuts on each end of the lines and then the ferrules. Place both ends of line into the union and make sure the go all the way in. Slide the ferrule up snug to the union and hand tighten the nut. Do the other side. tighten everything with a wrench but don't overdo it. You can easily pinch the lines with the ferrule. With the engine running check them for leaks and tighten until the leaking stops, then quit.
This will be a lot easier than trying to replace the whole line. Trying to get new lines on a transmission while it is still in the car is a royal pain in the ****. Been there, done that. They have to be bent and go in at an angle which is almost blind. Hope this helps.

they are a type of quick connect fitting. There is a special tool just for these types of fittings. If you remove the plastic cover that goes over the fitting you will see a metal clip in a groove. You can use a small pick to carefully remove the clip (they go flyin and get lost easily but they are available from your local GM dealer or parts store). Once the clip is removed you will be able to pull the line out of the radiator/transmission fitting.

Reinstall the clip after you remove the line. The new line will slide in and click into place.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

If it is in a spot where you can easily work on it, then you can cut the line and put in a compression fitting. The line needs to be relatively rust free for it to work properly. Cut the line and clean up the ends, slide the nut on first and then the ferrule and tighten.
If the line is too rusty to do this then you can replace it with a piece of steel brake line. Make sure it is the same diameter and length or a little longer. Also make sure the ends are the same, some are double flared and some are ballon flared. You need to know for sure because they can't be interchanged. Brake line won't come with the right ends to screw on but you should be able to get brass fittings the fix you up.
If you don't want to replace the whole line get a short piece of brake line that will span to 2 good sections of your current line but you will probably have to double flare your current line ends so the unions will go on. There aren't any fittings that have a compression fitting on 1 end and a union on the other.
Hope this helps.

In a pinch, I agree, use a compression fitting. But that is even harder than doing it the right way. After cutting the line, you have to have it perfectly round. By working with the already rusty metal, you are now fatiguing the metal. Then add on the compression, and added weight, and you get yourself a weak point.

The easiest way is to by the right length line or lines (It is far better to have more than less), the couplers (if needed), and any special adapters you may need (ie 3/16 standard flare to 1/4 bubble flare.) Take with you the ends and a section of line. The line is not that expensive ($7 for the longest.)

Start running the line, one section at a time, making sure to keep the ends on the end. When you need to make a bend, DO NOT make a tight bend that crimps the line. Discard the line if this happens. If you have a tool, use it. Other wise use you hand to make, gentle bends. Connect one end and connect the couplers, if used. When you get to the other side, wind the excess around a spiral. Secure with wire or existing retainers.

This is way safer than a compression fitting, and not all that hard. Remember to bleed the brakes

cant say i have worked on one of these YET but if their is no obvious connection just a compression join then take it off the other end as it could be all one piece with the rad

O.K. here we go.. The fittings require a special tool to release line from fitting. Look here its a good listing of disconnect tools with the tools application along side of it. Probably A379

http://www.autopart.com/tools/help/catal...

Next, on those vans the lines and fittings are notorious for leaking and I have found best supplier for replacement lines and fittings is Dorman, really good quality aftermarket parts.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bin/v...

Go to where the lines and connectors are listed and look yours up. For sure you will be replacing fitting and I bet you will end up replacing lines.
Those transmissions are notoriuos for failing early so now might be good time to service transmission.
You can take the tool part number, and dorman numbers to local O'reillys and if they don't have in stock they will have at warehouse a few hours away. You may have to look for same tool made by another manufacturer, I am not 100% with my guess on your tool, ask your parts guys.