Battery not keeping good charge

Check all your battery connections. Maybe not a good connection since your key doesn't turn on warning lights and gauges. See if your headlights work to verify a good battery connection.
Any chance you blew fuses? Like a maxi fuse for the ignition switch? Or for older vehicles that used a fusible link to connect battery power with the ignition switch. Keep diagnosing until you get power to the ignition switch (warning lights and gauges working with key ON).
Any chance your battery is totally discharged? Was the alternator working good when tested? If alternator quits working, engine and all electricals will run off the battery for a time until it is totally depleted, then will stall and won't have enough juice to even turn any lights on. Check battery voltage with a multi meter or voltmeter. A good, fully charged battery will show 12.6 volts. If under 12 volts, it may or may not have enough juice to start, but lights will still work some, though maybe very dim. .

Change all your relays,especially in the engine bay,check your idler control valve/servo for faulty or short circuited.Also check all the fuse boxes for contamination,Spray with circuit board cleaner or something similar.

have you tried cleaning the batt terminals and make sure the plug on alt is in and the bolt that holds the one wire is tight in the alt

It seems like there is most likely a bad connection between your alternator and your battery I would look into replacing those wires. That is far more likely than that many bad alternators.

You need to check the voltage at the battery itself, if the battery voltage is indicating in the area of 12.5 - 14.0 volts and your dash gauge does not agree, then the dash cluster has a bad stepper motor which drives the gauge.
If the battery voltage agrees with the dash gauge, and the alternator was changed and is assumed good, you need to check the wires going to the alternator, there may a broken connection.

If you have a light on or your gauge says it's not charging, replace the alternator. Obviously, it isn't charging.

Have you changed the alternator. The alternator may not be putting out enough of volts to keep the battery charged, also the alternator could be charging but the battery could have dead cells. What or if any parts have you replaced. Also what does the charge indicator on the gauge cluster indicate and do you have a battery light flashing on the cluster panel.

Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).

Sounds like the alternator is bad (not charging). If your battery is good/charged it should run until the battery is drained. If the battery is bad/not charged the car will die as soon as the cables are taken off as there is not enough juice to run the ignition system. If the alternator is good (but battery bad) the car would still run as the alternator makes power to run the car but becasue the battery is dead/drained there is no power to start the car (hense needing the jump). Have the alternator/charging system tested

Sounds like you need to replace the Alternator