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which of the 2 engines, 1.6L or 1.8l, (radically different)?????
engine stalls.
top cause, no service, a tuneups skipped, ever do the 60k tuneup?
per the operators guide?
if it dont start, for 3 mins.
its either
1: flooded (use WOT cranking to unflood any engine)
2: lost spark,. do the std, spark tests.
3: plugs fouled (tuneup?)
4: lost fueling.. no fueling at all and TEST FUEL (spraycan) works for 3min run and dies, sure lost fuel.
USE A SPARK PLUG WIRES BOOT PULLER.THE BOOT PULLER CAN GO TIGHT PLACES WHERE YOUR HANDS CANT REACH.ONCE YOU REMOVE SPARK PLUGS WIRES REPLACE THEM.SOME PLUG WIRES WILL BREAK AWAY FROM THE BOOT WHEN REMOVING SPARK PLUGS WIRES.DONT REMOVE OLD PLUG WIRES IF YOU DONT HAVE NEW SET PLUG WIRES ON HAND.BECAUSE YOU WILL DISABLE VECHICLE.IF COUPLE OLD PLUGS WIRES BREAK WHILE REMOVING THEM YOU WILL BE 2 PLUG WIRES SHORT AND YOU CANT DRIVE VECHICLE THAT WHY HAVE NEW SET OF PLUG WIRES ON HAND.
-Last number corresponds to which cylinder is misfiring.
Could be a faulty spark plug or wire. Try changing the spark plug from the 4 Cylinder to another and see what happens; If the different cylinder misfires, then it is the spark plug. If not, it could be the wires on cylinder 4.
If you want to check to see if you are getting spark - remove a spark plug and reconnect the plug wire. Be sure the plug is grounded to a good ground on the engine and try to start the eng. If there is spark seen at the electrode of the spark plug then it is not your ignition system (as far as spark goes) If you do not see spark it could be your coil or possible your ignition module (in distributor) I'm guessing you have an ignition mod - you do not mention the eng you have.
look hard around your valve cover or your spark plugs holes especially #3 and #5. i found mine on 3 and 5 spark plugs. oil sometimes drip down to hot eng and smell like burn oil. possibility your valve cover that seal your spark plug hole is worn out and leak around the valve cover and straight down to hot area. replacing valve cover gasket is not easy and if you take it shop will cost you over $1000.00 because of intake manifold and a lots of hardwares to remove. shop around before you take it to the shop. if you do it your self with a friend make sure you take picture for every lines ,bolts sensor plugs and so on you remove. also may as well tune up or change your spark plugs. good luck
Carbon build up comes from rich mixture or weak ignition. This will cause misfiring, hesitation and hard starting. To fix the problem, change the plugs and use a plug that will produce a higher heat range. Which means it has a hotter firing/ignition when combustion. This will burn the excess gas that causes the carbon. Be sure to check the plug wires to make sure you don't have spark jumping. (check at night with engine running). Also be sure the air filter is clean.
Need to remove upper intake manifold to reach valve cover close to firewall.
1) The location of spark plugs 456 are under the plastic shield in front of the engine. It takes an 8mm socket to remove the three bolts holding the shield once the shield is removed you will see a coil for each spark plug. Use the 8mm socket and remove the coil and rubber boots. You will now see the spark plug (note there are not any spark plug wires).
2) The location of spark plugs 123 are located to the rear of the eng. You have to remove the air intake manifold in order to get to the spark plus. Remove the throttle wire then remove the other items on top of the intake manifold.
3) Loosen all the bolts holding the manfold. 8mm socket-- I think three in front and three in the middle. Remove the EGR valve mounts so you can slide the manifold out. Disconnet all vacuum lines from manifold and the air filter inlet closet to manifold. Just take a general look and ensure you have all wiring and tubing disconnected then slide the manifold off the eng and EGR valve.
NOW MAKE SURE you cover all intake holes (leading into the engine) with paper towels to prevent droping screws etc into the engine. Then follow step 1 above
this gets a little tricky but it not that bad. the plugs in the front of the eng are pretty east just remove the eng cover, then the coil pack. U will need a spark plug socket and a extension to get the plugs out. now the rear plugs is where is gets tricky. pretty much the same, remove the coil packs held in by a 10mm bolt the not u have Way less room to fit ur tool in. I use a small 3/8 ratchet, 3" or smaller locking ext, and a swivle spark plug socket. if u dont have the right tools getting to the rear plugs is next to impossible without removing the intake
change your spark plugs......most of the power lost involved is because of using injector cleaners and toooooooo much of it........it ok to use it.....but it will fowl your plugs.......supper easy to change them...Note: make sure you use a spark plug socket...with the rubber insert so you dont keep dropping the plug.......just unplug the black wires one at a time and pull out the coil/plug wire.......and change them......please dont use those crappy champion plugs.....!!
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