Noisy engine don't sound like bearing

Hi it could B a loose belt or a bearing in the compressor CHECK THE TENSION ON THE BELT ...FIRST....good luck

Turn off the airconditioning to see if that helps. If it does, then it is likely the airconditioning compressor.

Remove the water pump drive belt. Feel the water pump for free play. If excessive, then replace the pump. You can try spinning it too to see if it's noisy.

WIth the drive belts off, start the car for a few seconds. Twenty seconds tops should do it. Not too long as it will overheat.
Is the noise still present. If not, then check all pump bearings, pulley bearings, tensioner bearings, water pump etc as the noise is one of those things.

First of all you need to find a new garage that isn't just telling you what they don't know. If it were just a filter they would have replaced it and watched you drive away with a smile on your face. There is nothing better than a happy customer. The other thing is that you don't mention if the ****** is a manual or automatic. The ****** could be a bunch of different problems depending on type of ******. Also Volkswagen's are noted for many sensor problems. There are many sensors that can throw a code if they even malfunction for a second. Wish I could help more, but the information is to vague.

I don't think a bad oil pump would make that racket. It could be your crankshaft main bearings or rod bearings (also on the crankshaft). If you're sure it's coming from the engine, I would take it to a shop for someone to listen and try to determine what it may be. If it is the bearings, it is major rebuild time.

Most electric cooling fans are noisy. They move large volumes of air to cool the engine. You will hear this noise most predominately when the fan spools up when you are stopped at a traffic light. As long as it is working and cooling the engine I wouldn't worry about it.

I have answered lots of Mini questions and this is the 1st one about the water pump being noisy. The problem is caused by the pumps shaft bearing seal leaking, this destroys the shaft bearing. Don't let it go so long that the shaft breaks, and it will.

A low or no oil pressure reading verified either by your dash light or gauge, accompanied by tapping or knocking inside the engine indicates that a connecting rod, crankshaft or sometimes even a camshaft bearing has failed. If the engine has heavy internal sludge deposits, I'd also suspect a blocked oil pump pickup. Low or no reading can also be caused by a bad pressure sensor on the engine, or the wiring or the gauge may be faulty. To accurately determine exactly what the oil pressure is, it's best to install a mechanical test gauge so you get a direct reading.
Oil pumps often get blamed for pressure problems. By experience, of the hundreds I've seen, only one had actually failed. Most pumps are damaged or internally worn by debris from another failure (ie: bearings etc) Therefore replacing the pump fixes the result, not the cause and it fails again very soon.
If your engine is noisy, don't drive it. If you already have, chances are that the engine should be replaced as damage from no oil pressure is often extensive and debris migrates through and contaminates oil passages making in-car repairs less than reliable.

Engines can make many different noises and people will describe them as knocks, pings, rattles or thumps. A true "knock" is caused by rod or main bearings hitting against the crankshaft. The general cause of that is either too much space between the bearing and crankshaft or insufficient oil pressure to maintain the distance between the bearing and crankshaft. Sometimes you can use a heavier grade oil so that the oil doesn't leak out of the bearing space so quickly. If you're currently using 5 W 15, go to a 10 W 30 or maybe even a 15 W 50. If you can't make the noise go away with that, either the bearings are too worn or it's a different problem. If the engine has less than a couple hundred thousand miles, the only reason for bearings to go bad would be inadequate maintenance.

Other problems that can result in noises like that are:

Piston slap. That's when the skirt (lower part) of the piston is slightly worn and is enough smaller than the cylinder that the skirt "pops" from one side to the other as the engine runs. It's more of an annoyance than a real problem, especially since piston slap typically goes away as the engine warms up a little. It typically takes just a few seconds to go away. If it's piston slap don't worry about it until the engine is rebuilt. Piston slap is quite common among many of the GM 350's, especially in engines that go short distances a lot or don't get adequate maintenance.

Fuel "pinging". That's when the fuel ignites too quickly and causes a sound like something rattling around inside the engine when you step on the accellerator. Use a fuel octane booster or change the engine timing.

Hydraulic lifter noises sounds more like a tapping sound and is usually caused by inconsistent oil changes

SHORT STORY, IT IS 13 YEARS OLD AND 3 YEARS PAST ITS DESIGNED LIFE

Hi There.
sounds like your release bearing has either collapsed or seized, either way you will have to drop the gear box and check it out... should'nt be a problem on a 1999 fiesta. just be careful not to pop a drive shaft and lose the transmission fluic on the floor.
Good Luck

They can be noisy, my rodeo sounds like a diesel. But, it might be something else, belt tensioners usually only tap, one time every rpm, valves might make more racket, rods sound like a snare drum under neath the car, check the oil, the sound should be coming from the front of the engine. Water pumps, alternators, ac comp, all can be noisy. Turn off the ac when listening. Watch out for the fan. A long screwdriver or a piece of wood with ear against the end will quickly find a noisy part.